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PAHR: DINE IN A BRUTALIST OASIS AT WEDDING’S NEW LOBE BLOCK

PAHR: DINE IN A BRUTALIST OASIS AT WEDDING’S NEW LOBE BLOCK

There’s been a bit of a buzz around Wedding since the opening of Arno Brandlhuber’s mixed-use Lobe Block — a staggered concrete building in a quiet corner of Humboldthain that’s home to ateliers, studios, agencies, and apartments. Its resident restaurant and “platform for creative experiences” is Pahr, founded by Jessica-Joyce Sidon and Caecilia Baldszus (who trained in the kitchen at Forsthaus Strelitz), and currently serving a simple, vegetable-focussed lunch menu and all-day coffee during the week. Think Albatross sourdough with housemade Obatzda, Zwetschge plums, coriander and chili, carrot galette with melon and za’atar, or a pumpkin bowl with spinach, radicchio, dukkah, and tahini. Many elements here support local: Coffee beans come from the nearby Coffee Circle, The light-flooded interior is filled with sleek tables by Tatkraft in Reinickendorf, and two large-scale artworks by Peter Klare, whose studios are located in the Uferhallen, adorn the towering walls. The French word “par” (“by”) as in “par excellence” inspired this establishment’s name, and if its first two weeks of service is anything to go by, we’re looking forward to watching it grow — with dinner service, workshops, and a whole lot more to come. (Text: Anna Dorothea Ker / Photos: Pamina Aichhorn)

Pahr, Böttgerstr.16, 13357 Berlin-Wedding; map

Mon-Fri 9-17h, follow on Instagram for updates.

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BARBARA RUSS RECOMMENDS: KIOSKO IL CALICE

BARBARA RUSS RECOMMENDS: KIOSKO IL CALICE

On the eastern edge of Walter Benjamin Platz stands a single chestnut tree, underneath which Enoteca Il Calice has set up a kiosk. Resembling a Parisian newspaper stand, it in fact offers Italian wines and cuisine. Placed around the “kiosko” are wine crate tables and wooden folding chairs. Gazing over the somewhat atypical yet peacefully quiet square, a symmetrical fountain on the west side catches my eye. Following the construction of the colonnades, architect Wolfgang Kil criticised their creators for having “built with great effort nothing more than “industrialized apartment blocks” from living stone”. I’m no specialist, but I do think this hidden part of Berlin provides space for contemplation. That’s why I like to come to Il Calice, read, have a glass of wine and enjoy the sun that bathes the square in light well into the evening. The philosopher Walter Benjamin, alas, had no affiliation to the square, as his family lived further south in Wilmersdorf. But I think he would have liked it. (Text: Barbara Russ / Photos: Il Calice)

Kiosko Il Calice, Walter-Benjamin-Platz 4, 10629 Berlin-Charlottenburg; map
Mon-Sat 12-1h

Barbara Russ is a freelance journalist and translator. After having lived in Paris, New York and most recently in Düsseldorf, she has (finally) moved back to Berlin and is busy exploring her new Charlottenburg-Wilmersdorf neighborhood.

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PALSTA: NORDIC PLATES MEET NATURAL WINE IN SCHILLERKIEZ

PALSTA: NORDIC PLATES MEET NATURAL WINE IN SCHILLERKIEZ

Tempelhofer Feld is a hot contender for Berlin’s best sunset spot — where blushing light casts shadows across the asphalt in distinctive shades. Since August 2018, that same subtle light has been spilling onto the tables of Palsta, where you’re invited to wine and dine with small plates from chef Filip Sondergaard — best known from his work at Dóttir, and natural wines supplied by a variety of local purveyors. Accompanied by a golden-hued glass of Els Bassotets 2016 from Spain, we started with a subtly sweet shrimp tartar, dotted with black pepper mayo, dill and citrus, finished tableside with a tangy spill of buttermilk. Followed by buttery fried anchovies with baby gems and green tomatoes, then fresh Icelandic cod — flown in only hours before hitting our table — with charred cabbage and a vibrant parsley sauce, each carefully constructed plate seemed to one-up the last. As the last of the sun’s peachy golden rays hit our table, we gazed at our fellow diners as they savored the dishes we so enjoyed. After one last glass — a musky, oak-aged Italian red (Le Coste’s Rusticone Rosso), available, as all their wines are, by the bottle to stay or go — we headed out into the late summer evening, the sky now as crimson as the wine still on our palettes. (Text: Devan Grimsrud / Photos: Luke Marshall Johnson)

Palsta, Oderstr.52, 12049 Berlin-Neukölln; map

Wed-Sun 15-24h, Kitchen open from 18-22.30h

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MARIELLE KREIENBORG RECOMMENDS: ŠLJIVA

MARIELLE KREIENBORG RECOMMENDS: ŠLJIVA

Šljiva [pronounced "Shleeva"], a promising new addition to the Arminius Markthalle in Moabit, has what many (Berlin) restaurants still miss: the power of women fuelling it. Owner and Chef, Cathleen Potter left behind the security of her job in project management to devote herself to her passion project, a Balkan bistro which brings together the best of the region’s culinary culture on one menu. There’s “Karadjordjeva Schnitzel” filled with bacon & kajmak, homemade Serbian pasta (“Miinci”) and “Krempita” for dessert: a refreshing blend of baklava-like puff pastry and vanilla cream. When contemplating Balkan cuisine, mountains of meat may come to mind. That’s not the case at Šljiva, where Potter wants to do things differently: More enjoyment, less belly. Of course, the legendary “Ćevapčići” (grilled minced meat) is a menu mainstay, but here it comes served with vegetables, grilled octopus and my personal highlight: the specially-created Šljiva salad with celery, apple, walnuts, dried plums, mayonnaise and the delicious Duvan Čvarci (pork scratchings). To top it all off, the plum brandy “Šljivovica” — the namesake of this culinary journey through the Balkans — was offered as a digestif on the house. (Text: Marielle Kreienborg / Photos: Pamina Aichhorn)

Restaurant Šljiva, Arminiusmarkthalle, Arminiusstr.2-4 10551 Berlin-Moabit; map

Mon 18-22h, Tue-Fri 12-15h & 18-22h, Sat 12-23h

Having studied languages at Humboldt University, Marielle Kreienborg has been living in Neukölln for six years and working as a freelance writer reporting on Berlin and beyond.

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ELEGANT MEDITERRANEAN COURTYARD DINING: SHISHI

ELEGANT MEDITERRANEAN COURTYARD DINING: SHISHI

You’re acquainted with the charismatic Tel Aviv eatery Yafo? Let us introduce you to its elegant yet laid-back younger sister, Shishi, the second restaurant opened by Israeli restauranteur Shani Ahiel, in August 2018. The trickiest aspect of a visit here is choosing where to sit: The cosy interior with its pink corduroy curtains, concepted by interior designer Idan Gilony of UY Studio, sets a feel-good tone, while the sprawling brick-framed courtyard offers a refreshing al fresco dining experience. Once you’ve picked your spot, settle down to a glass of natural wine supplied by Cantine Sant’Ambroeus and peruse the short, Mediterranean-inspired menu. It’s prone to change depending on what’s on the market that day, but here’s a teaser or two: grilled kohlrabi with fresh cheese, sesame, thyme and green chili, beetroot and peach carpaccio, hazelnut vinaigrette and crème fraîche, or grass-fed sirloin tartar, onions in sumac and greens. Shishi may be a younger sibling, but an evening spent in its presence will leave you feeling as effortlessly elegant as it itself. (Text: Anna Dorothea Ker / Fotos: Pamina Aichhorn)

Shishi, Ritterstr.12-14, 10969 Berlin-Kreuzberg; map
Mon-Fri 12-23h

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