A bright, open space features dark wood panels and floor-to-ceiling windows, which — now that it’s warm — are flung wide open to provide a view over an inviting terrace. Bricole, Berlin’s first “hors d’œuvre” bar, opened in Helmholzkiez in January 2017. Its 28-year old owner, Fabian Fischer, made his foray into Berlin’s gastronomy scene at Borchardt a while back, and today works his culinary magic together with chef Steven Zeidler, of the former Restaurant Schatz, and head bartender Jan Rethemeier, of Hotel am Steinplatz. Following in the footsteps of Borchardt, Fischer focuses on French cuisine, but adapts it to the relaxed Berlin standard and mixes it with international influences. The format is hors d’œuvre — not to be confused with Spanish tapas. They are instead finely composed dishes, complete in themselves, only served in appetizer size. Think asparagus with smoked potatoes, leek puree, crème fraîche and Keta caviar, goat’s cheese wontons with fennel cream and fermented garlic, or tonka bean crème brûlée. The menu of nine to twelve plates — one third of which are vegetarian — rotates fortnightly and is supplemented by craft beer from Berlin and German wine. It’s all served up on wooden tables with fabric napkins at hand. Simple, tasteful and perfect for dinner for two or a small group of friends. Don’t forget to book on weekends. (Text: Robert Strack / Photos: Bricole — Bar Hors d’œuvre)
Robert Strack has lived in Prenzlauer Berg since 2008. He is the Managing Director of Europrint Medien and enjoys Argentine tango and Berliner cuisine in his spare time.