I cannot be sure exactly when Desi Diner won me over, but I can tell you it was no later than my second bite of the Reuben sandwich. Comprising homemade pastrami, sauerkraut, melted Swiss cheese, Thousand Island dressing and mango chutney, this bulging hunk of sourdough was outrageously good, one of the best sandwiches I’ve eaten in a long time, possibly ever. It also points to what Desi Diner is about. The sandwich’s size and core contents transport you to the all-night cafes in the USA, with their swivel stools and pale coffee. But hang on: mango chutney? This diner, while dabbling in Americana, has got one foot firmly in South Asia. Sandwiched between the Bouldergarten climbing gym and the looming Neukölln Finanzamt next door, Desi Diner is the latest food venture by Shabnam Syed – aka Mama Shabz – who ran the eponymous Pakistani restaurant in Reichenberger Straße until the diner doors opened in October 2024.
Shabz’s new place is daytime-only (it shuts at 15h) and housed in a mid-century modern shell that has been given a pink and mint makeover whose approximate vibe is “1980s Miami ice cream parlour”. Also fun is the menu: achingly American classics like fries in baskets and drip coffee sit alongside staples from the Subcontinent, such as the weekly daal that made Mama Shabz such a popular joint. Then there are the mash-ups: a chicken tikka Caesar salad and – my personal favorite – pakora waffles with fried masala chicken, chili maple syrup and gherkins. This is one of those dishes that lights up all your brain’s pleasure centers – my dining companion said she “briefly saw God” upon stealing a bite. In conclusion: a lovely, unfussy lunch.
Text: Benji Haughton / Photos: Ruby Watt
Desi Diner, Thiemannstr.1, 12059 Berlin–Neukölln; map
@desidinerberlin
