An early morning bus takes us to Leuenberg, located northeast of Berlin. As we get off the bus and watch its taillights grow smaller and smaller, we find ourselves out in the countryside and need a moment to get our bearings. Luckily, the country bakery Brot & Fein is already open. We pack a slice of freshly baked cake for provisions, and off we go. We want to hike south along the 66 Lakes Trail toward Strausberg. To do so, we simply follow the blue-dot trail marker, 22 kilometers in total. Our route begins right across the street, passing organic farmer Behring’s sheep. Behringhof also has large orchard meadows with various old apple varieties. In late summer, there are dates available for picking your own apples and guided tours on sustainable agriculture. Lange Haussee is the first of many lakes on today’s agenda. The long, narrow lakes were formed by meltwater flowing away during the Ice Age. We cross the tracks of the disused Wriezener Bahn and see Mittelsee glittering through the trees. We walk along a small forest path that runs above and parallel to its shore. It’s unusually hilly here and wonderfully green. Old oaks mixed with beeches and pines reach right down to the water. After this secluded stretch, we arrive at the Waldkiez Tiefensee campground, which lies directly on Gamensee. Our route leads across the campground, with its official swimming area, boat rental, and restaurant. A wooden bench with the best view over the lake is free, perfect for our first picnic.
Continuing along Gamensee, we cross the main road and hike for a long stretch through a wild, old forest, where fallen trees have been left where they fell. In between, there is a stretch of pine forest, the ground covered in green moss, so beautiful you want to lie down in it. Berlin seems infinitely far away. Next to a marshy meadow, trees stand in the water. This is where the Fredersdorfer Mühlenfließ has its source, and from now on, it accompanies our route. It flows through Paradiessee, Kesselsee, Fängersee, and Bötzsee, exactly the lakes we will pass today. Behind the picturesque name Paradiessee lies a paradise for birds and fish. The dark lake, which, like neighboring Kesselsee, was formed by peat cutting, looks enchanted with its tree-covered islands and dead trees. At Fängersee, we discover the abandoned Wesendahler Mühle and finally reach Spitzmühle and the beautiful Bötzsee. After eighteen kilometers of hiking, a little tired and sweaty, we are ready for a well-deserved swim. After that, it’s not far to the Straussee ferry. For more than 100 years, the ferry across Straussee has connected the forest side, “Jenseits des Sees,” with Strausberg Stadt. Be sure to check the ferry times. For a few minutes, a refreshing breeze blows in our faces, then the short boat ride, and with it this beautiful summer hike, comes to an end. In Strausberg Stadt, we take the S-Bahn back to Berlin.
Text & Photos: Daniela Bialk
The hiking guide Von See zu See is author Daniela Bialk’s invitation to take a break from everyday life and explore the 66 Lakes Trail around Berlin. The book offers an abundant selection of day hikes, all easily accessible by bus and train. Available at local bookstores and online.
