A good mood is guaranteed at Treat, not least because of the big gold smiley emblazoned on the front of the Neukölln wine shop. The logo also features on Treat’s glasses, in which they serve the likes of low intervention and biodynamic orange wine from the Czech Republic and Portuguese Pet Nats (see our article from 2020). Now owner Julia Böning has a new “treat” in store: she’s invited the team from Feed the Pony to cook for a series of weekend dinner nights. In the kitchen is Hannah, who worked at nearby Palsta and Brasserie Lamazère, while up front is Marty, who brings expert knowledge and lots of passion (Maja, the third in the group, is currently on parental leave). The trio share a passion for seasonal, regional ingredients of the finest quality. Dinner is served on small plates and bowls, with home-baked dark rye bread and whipped creamy butter on the side. The refreshing summer tomato salad comes with a dressing of rhubarb and elderberry, while the vichyssoise soup is given a green makeover with crunchy peas and fish from Stechlinsee – easily the best dish of the evening.
That said, the fermented potato waffles with crème fraîche and unripe gooseberries are a fun, surprising standout. For dessert you’ll find a slimline spin on Topfenknödel served with slivers of almond on top. From a culinary standpoint it’s all great, but it’s the partnership between Treat and Feed the Pony that’s where the magic happens. Treat customers had long been requesting a food menu to go with their wine – a wish that has now been fulfilled. Whether you class it as food with wine or wine with food doesn’t matter – both have equal billing here. The Treat team are there to guide you through the evening’s wine list: discovering Portuguese mousse sparkling wine was a highlight of the evening, as was the “Aparte Amber Orange” with its funky flavors. In short, the food and drink wowed us – as did the personable team’s incredible knowledge and expertise. We went home with grins as wide as the smiley on the window.
Text: Nina Trippel / Photos: Nina Trippel & Julia Böning
Treat Berlin, Okerstr.35, 12049 Berlin–Neukölln; map
Feed the Pony Fridays & Saturdays from 18h; you can request a table by email
