Named after the loan shark from the Rocky films, Neukölln’s latest pizza-slinging joint has been full from day one. It could be thanks to the pink neon sign on its inviting pumpkin-colored exterior, outside which a Vespa is often parked. Or the Prosecco on tap and range of Italian spritzes. Not to mention its perfectly crispy organic sourdough pizza base recipe, which is fired at a slightly lower cooking temperature than the classic Neapolitan style. But what we suspect keeps the punters coming back for more is Gazzo’s buffalo milk offerings: Manifested in the mozzarella di buffala starter — plump, silky and served with chunks of colorful tomatoes. Or atop several of the nine pizzas — together with, for example, roasted aubergine, caramelised garlic and onions and pecorino. Autumn specials like nutty charred kale, smoked provolone, caramelised onion and organic mountain parmesan make it hard to stick to just one pizza. But sacrifices are sometimes worth making — like for the (Brandenburg) buffalo milk soft serve, drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with sea salt. It’s indulgent, and leaves you feeling in high spirits — as does the cheeky interior of this establishment, which feels like it’s been a fixture in this neck of the woods for far longer than just two months. (Text: Anna Dorothea Ker / Photos: Augusta Leigh)
Gazzo, Hobrechtstr.57, 12047 Berlin-Neukölln; map
Tue-Sun 17-22h
