
East Berlin, West Berlin — you probably know Berlin as one. And yet, traces of its divided past are everywhere, even if we no longer notice them. A great example is the 160-kilometer-long Berlin Wall Trail, which once marked the border between East and West during the GDR era. 35 years ago, GDR border troops patrolled this very path. Today, it’s a popular route for recreational athletes. As a Sunday hiker, I count myself among them. My section of the Wall Trail leads past Kladow’s last settlement area to the quiet Sacrower See, a lake nestled by the Königswald forest. A protected nature reserve since 1941, this forest is home to ancient pines, mixed woodlands, small bogs and swamps. The lake itself is beautiful, clear, and peaceful — a perfect escape for dog owners and city dwellers seeking a moment of solitude. A winding path follows the shoreline, passing small, idyllic bays towards Sacrow, best known for its castle and expansive park. Here, history is ever-present. But the highlight of our Sunday hike awaited us just beyond the castle, in the southwestern part of the park: the famous Heilandskirche.
Built in 1842 at the request of King Frederick William IV, this church stands out with its unusual Italian-inspired architecture. It extends over the Havel like a proud ship, its loggia’s round arches offering shelter and warmth. This day, a few visitors bask in the spring sun beneath the arches. Pausing here feels almost essential, especially in a place so rich with history. This small church on the banks of the Havel has witnessed so much, yet still offers visitors a quiet moment under its sunlit arches. The entire 11-kilometer tour can be completed in three to four hours. And, as always, there’s a magnificent old tree to discover along the way — this time, it’s the 1,000-year-old “Thusnelda”, a grand old German oak.
Text & photos: Laura Iriondo
Komot Tour
@fortuna.forest