Spring greets us this year with mild temperatures and endless days of sunshine. It’s time to top up our vitamin D levels and spend the blossoming season outdoors. Some of you might already know the tranquil village of Caputh, not only for its close connection to Potsdam, but also because it’s often associated with the world’s most famous physicist, Albert Einstein. He owned a summer house on the shores of one of the three lakes surrounding the village. Caputh has the rare ability to transport you almost instantly from the pace of city life into a rustic holiday mood, which makes a trip there particularly appealing. We spent an afternoon there — more than enough time to slow down and immerse ourselves in its architectural idyll. Our excursion began at Caputh-Geltow station, just a few stops from Berlin’s city centre. From there, it’s only a short walk to a small cable ferry that has been carrying people — whether by car, bicycle, or, like us, on foot — across the Templiner See from one bank to the other since 1853 (the crossing costs 50 cents and must be paid in cash). Once on the other side, we strolled through the village, taking in Caputh’s sights such as the beautiful Caputh Palace and the village church. But before long, we felt drawn onward: enough charming little landmarks — it’s time for the forest. More precisely, we headed to Caputher See, the smallest of the three lakes around the village. It’s wonderfully quiet there, as water sports aren’t permitted, and the trees along the shore are reflected in the still water. Small paths led us deeper into the woods, past mossy patches, tiny swamps, and ancient oak trees.
We were lucky as the mild spring temperatures in Brandenburg had already awakened the brimstone butterflies from their winter sleep. This species is, in fact, the only butterfly in Germany that survives the winter rather than migrating to warmer regions. By the sandy shore of Lake Lienewitz, we had covered about half our hike — time for a lunch break: homemade quiche and wild rice salad with cavolo nero. My hiking partner and I coordinated our cooking preparations perfectly. Well fortified, we continued towards the Wietkiekenberg lookout tower. From the platform, around 124 metres above sea level, a wide view opened up over the surrounding landscape. Following the shore of Schwielowsee, the path eventually led us back to Caputh. We deliberately skipped a train back to Berlin and instead soaked up the last rays of the day — with a cappuccino, rhubarb spritzer, and sun-soaked skin. In 1933, Albert Einstein wrote the following lines to his son: “Be a lazy creature, stretch out all four limbs, come to Caputh, forget about the world. And about your father, too, if you like!” Einstein was undoubtedly one of the most important physicists in history. Whether the same can be said about his poetry is up for debate. But that Caputh is a fantastic place with a very special charm — Albert and I are in complete agreement.
Text & Photos: Laura Luisa Iriondo
Find the route here.
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