“Sacrebleu!” is not only an enjoyable expression to say. The French term that translates directly to “holy blue!” is usually exclaimed in surprise or shock. It’s a perfect fit for Sacrebleu!, a Schillerkiez restaurant and bar. Not only does the name quickly associate the space with French cuisine, for the team here the name is also meaningful in how they associate dark blue with the stain red wines leave after a few hours of oxidation. You’ll find the blue neon sign of Sacrebleu! on a quiet street. The space reaches far back, with high rattan seats tucked under black marble-like tables, and one low, longer table for group dining. Founders Léna Gessner, Philipp Mogwitz and Sven Breitenbruch wanted to launch a wine bar with small snacks when Sacrebleu! opened at the start of 2023. Sommelier Alexander Fleck came on board to develop and manage the project and he proudly guides us through the restaurant’s story, concept and – his favorite – the wines. The selection is low intervention wines, as to allow true expression of the terroir and the winemaker’s touch. The wines are European-centric, straight, clean, and there’s something for everyone (and every dish!) with about 20 on offer by the glass.
The cuisine at Sacrebleu! is centered on bistronomy. Undoubtedly, there is an element of classic Parisian bistro recipes, and here they elegantly meet a modern gastronomic approach. The menu, by head chef Marc Bierstedt, is seasonal and rotates monthly. He masters marinades, preservatives and fermentations, through dishes that are creative, colorful, exquisitely plated. Low-hung lights illuminate the plates as they arrive at our table. A standout is the steamed cod that falls apart with the touch of the fork, served in a mussel escabèche sauce, with butter, estragon, fennel seed and pastis. Alexander pairs it with the Beaujolais village Séléné. We also try the terrine with pumpkin and goat’s cheese, and the celery “Waldorf” which includes celery mousse, marinated grapes, hazelnuts, and delicately placed flakes of young black truffle. Whatever you choose, a “Sacrebleu!” might quietly fall from your lips.
Text & Photos: Savannah van der Niet
Sacrebleu!, Kienitzer Str. 95, 12049 Berlin–Neukölln; map
Mon–Thurs 18–24h & Fri 18–01h. Reservations recommended.
@sacrebleu.berlin
