“How spicy do you eat?” — It’s the first question we’re asked after sitting down at Larb Koi. A fair one, as we’ll soon find out. But first, the evening at this cozy spot on Krossener Straße in Friedrichshain begins with a starfruit–cranberry drink, served in delicate silver bowls. Cute. Sweet. Then things get serious, or rather, honest. The menu at Larb Koi features around ten dishes that rotate with the seasons. For us, it starts with Larb Moo, a northern Thai salad made of minced pork, homemade chili powder, mint, coriander, and spring onions. Finding the perfect papaya salad in Berlin isn’t easy. I didn’t expect to discover it just off Simon-Dach-Straße. There are curries with duck, beef, and octopus — and one standout: whole deep-fried sea bass, buried under a mountain of fresh herbs and lime. It comes with sticky rice, not as a side, but as a tool. Roll it into little balls with your fingers, dip them into sauces, and soak up juices. Cutlery is optional. For each dish, owner Sakarin Keawmali shares stories about its origin, its inspiration, even the exact way to prepare it. He also explains the many kinds of chili powders found across Thailand.
Keawmali brings a background in fine dining. He trained in various high-end kitchens and hotels, some of them French. It shows. The precision in every dish is unmistakable. The kitchen is focused, the execution meticulous. “Order a little bit of everything and share it all,” he advises. “That’s how it’s meant to be eaten.” His mission is clear: real Thai food. Uncompromising. Dishes that aren’t made this way anywhere else in Berlin. At the black-tiled bar, drinks are mixed with just as much care. The wine list was developed with neighborhood favorite Weinladen and features small, young winemakers, many natural, and many surprising. If you’re skipping alcohol, there are house-made Thai iced teas and coffees to try — some sweet, some silky, all refreshing. You’ll leave Larb Koi with a full belly, widened palate, and deep respect for Thai cuisine. And depending on your answer to that first question, maybe a light sheen of sweat on your brow.
Text: Inga Krumme / Photos: Ruby Watt
Larb Koi, Krossener Str.15, 10245 Berlin–Friedrichshain; map
@larbkoi2020
