With the sun setting on our faces, we stroll along Mehringdamm, the wide connecting axis between the city center and Tempelhof Airport. The large windows of Glaserei reflect the last glimpses of sunlight. When you walk into a new restaurant and it immediately feels like it’s always been there, you know it’s going to be a wonderful evening. Markus Schädel, from Schädels in Oderbergerstraße, and Albrecht Sprenger have opened their new restaurant with a bar and grill concept in the former glazier’s store. In the middle of the room stands a large zinc counter, bar stools and a few tables. They serve a variety of grilled dishes such as merguez with Provençal ketchup, sea bream fillet with lemon butter, grilled vegetables with pecorino, grilled pulpo, green asparagus, or rillette of smoked trout, fish soup with saffron, cannellini beans with baked garlic. We ordered lots of small plates to share, the table so full there was only room left for drinks. Simple dishes, accompanied by a glass of crémant, Chardonnay and potato chips — all served as though we had landed in a bar in Marseille rather than Mehringdamm. Next to us were a few locals and a table of teenagers: All generations coming together. “Just come in for a small plate or two. We cook what we like to eat ourselves,” says Markus Schädel and laughs. The naturalness with which his restaurant comes across is undeniable — unpretentious, delicious, to the point. We’ll be back here soon.
Friederike Schilbach is Editorial Director at Aufbau & Blumenbar. She works with authors such as Cemile Sahin, Rita Bullwinkel and Hengameh Yaghoobifarah. She likes peonies, and her favorite dish at Glaserei is the Sea Bream fillet with lemon butter. She lives with her family in Mitte.
Text: Friederike Schilbach, Milena Kalojanov / Photos: Robyn Steffen
Glaserei, Mehringdamm 49, 10961 Berlin–Kreuzberg; map
@glaserei_bar_grill
