East Berlin, West Berlin — you probably know Berlin as one. And yet, traces of its divided past are everywhere, even if we no longer notice them. A great example is the 160-kilometer-long Berlin Wall Trail, which once marked the border between East and West during the GDR era. 35 years ago, GDR border troops patrolled this very path. Today, it’s a popular route for recreational athletes. As a Sunday hiker, I count myself among them. My section of the Wall Trail leads past Kladow’s last settlement area to the quiet Sacrower See, a lake nestled by the Königswald forest. A protected nature reserve since 1941, this forest is home to ancient pines, mixed woodlands, small bogs and swamps. The lake itself is beautiful, clear, and peaceful — a perfect escape for dog owners and city dwellers seeking a moment of solitude. A winding path follows the shoreline, passing small, idyllic bays towards Sacrow, best known for its castle and expansive park. Here, history is ever-present. But the highlight of our Sunday hike awaited us just beyond the castle, in the southwestern part of the park: the famous Heilandskirche.

Built in 1842 at the request of King Frederick William IV, this church stands out with its unusual Italian-inspired architecture. It extends over the Havel like a proud ship, its loggia’s round arches offering shelter and warmth. This day, a few visitors bask in the spring sun beneath the arches. Pausing here feels almost essential, especially in a place so rich with history. This small church on the banks of the Havel has witnessed so much, yet still offers visitors a quiet moment under its sunlit arches. The entire 11-kilometer tour can be completed in three to four hours. And, as always, there’s a magnificent old tree to discover along the way — this time, it’s the 1,000-year-old “Thusnelda”, a grand old German oak.

Text & photos: Laura Iriondo

Komot Tour

@fortuna.forest

It was supposed to happen again last Sunday… Full of anticipation and after a long, depraved winter, a hike in the historic beech forest was on the agenda. To catch the limited hours of late winter sunshine, I convinced my hiking partner it would make sense to take the train from Gesundbrunnen at 8h30. It’s a shame when someone sleeps through the alarm and wakes an hour after the planned departure time (which is exactly what I did). Full of remorse, I quickly came up with a new plan. Goodbye UNESCO heritage site Buchenwald, hello Lake Tegel. Why wander far away when good things are so close? We quickly packed homemade energy bars into our bags and took the S-Bahn to Tegel station in less than an hour. During our time together outdoors, my hiking partner and I had a clear idea of what makes a good tour: seclusion, little to no civilization and diverse landscapes. Of course, this tour offers none of that! The circular hike of approximately 15 kilometers leads almost the entire time along settlements, summer houses, landing stages, boat and rowing clubs, restaurants and small beer gardens. But it wouldn’t be the first time our convictions and preferences had been thrown. And it was precisely this Sunday, with cheerful families and strollers, a touch of old Berlin, down-to-earth and anything but hip, that appealed to us so much. While the first brave athletes dared to get into their rowing and sailing boats, it was time to soak up the sun on the shore, wrapped in cozy winter jackets and oversized sunglasses. And this brings me to the next big advantage of this tour: a walk around the lake promises lots of sunshine.

The short section of forest that awaits after the first third of the tour has a lot to offer. The “Burgsdorff Larch”, Berlin’s tallest tree since 2021, stands at an impressive 43 meters. Nearby, the “Dicke Marie” can be found, Berlin’s oldest tree, dating back to 1107. Pause for a moment and think about that. We are talking about the High Middle Ages, the last years of the Romanesque period! From the forest, the tour returns to the shore, following the Havel, which branches off from Lake Tegel in a northerly direction. Along the way, bungalows, futuristic concrete buildings, turn-of-the-century castles, and other fascinating architectural gems appear in rows, each with its front garden, offering plenty to marvel at. This tour should take around four to five hours on foot. If the sky is cloudless, I can almost guarantee sunshine and a clear view for most of the way. A perfect short trip that I had never truly appreciated, despite its proximity to the city center. When do you plan to visit Tegel? I would go again in summer, as the small bays and sandy beaches will be even more beautiful then.

Text & photos: Laura Iriondo

Hiking trail

@fortuna.forest