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HIKING THE MÜGGELBERGE: BERLIN’S HIDDEN WILDERNESS, WITH A VIEW — RECOMMENDED BY WALKING ON THE WILD SIDE

HIKING THE MÜGGELBERGE: BERLIN’S HIDDEN WILDERNESS, WITH A VIEW — RECOMMENDED BY WALKING ON THE WILD SIDE

Whenever we want to escape the city for a few hours, our current favorite route takes us into the Müggelberge and through the Köpenicker Forst. It’s for anyone who wants to feel far from it all without a long journey. The trails are visually interesting: boggy wetlands, dense forest, and quiet waterways all in one walk.

Our route starts on the newly built Müggelberge Teufelssee nature trail. Where a summer retreat once drew day-trippers out of the city, a nature reserve now provides a habitat for a wide range of species. The narrow path winds through sun-dappled forest and skirts the edge of the Teufelsmoor bog. Eventually, a long flight of steps branches off to the right, climbing up to the Müggelturm — the hike’s first real highlight. On a clear day, the viewing platform rewards you with a spectacular panorama over the countryside surrounding Berlin.

After the descent, the flight of steps continues down to the Dahme, where the water glimmers in the distance, drawing you towards the shore. Benches here, with a view across to Bammelecke in Grünau (a popular swimming spot), make the perfect place for a short break and a first taste of whatever you’ve packed. The lakeside path stretches on for many kilometers, opening up one lovely swimming cove after another all the way to the F21 ferry landing at Krampenburg–Schmöckwitz. This stretch in particular is easy to extend as far as you like. Look closely, and you’ll spot gnaw marks left by the local beavers — a good sign of healthy water quality.

We, however, turn off earlier onto a side path to the left, heading back into the forest and up towards the Großer Müggelberg. The terrain gets noticeably hillier here, and the paths start to test your legs. Eventually, following the well-known downhill trails, we reach the summit. At 115 meters above sea level, we stand on the city’s highest natural point. The summit cross gives a genuine sense of mountaineering, right in the middle of a metropolis.

From there, the path winds back down past shelters and the outdoor learning stations of the Teufelssee forest school, returning to the bog. A wooden boardwalk carries you across the marshland and the lake, opening up views of water lilies swaying gently in the wind and dragonflies humming past. Among the reeds, birches and mud, one bench offers a last chance to sit, listen to the birdsong, and take in the surroundings with full attention. From there, the route leads directly back to where we started.

A few meters of elevation, a handful of forest paths, and the reassurance that Berlin’s next adventure is often only a few stops away. The Müggelberge proves that you don’t need monumental peaks to earn a proper break from everyday life. Tip: The free Wald-Zeit-Reise app offers quizzes, historical images, and information about the plants and animals of the Müggelberge hills.
Text: Julia Spindelmann & Flavia Lamprecht Photos: Walking on the Wild Side

Julia and Flavia are close friends from Berlin who share a passion for being outdoors and exploring. On their adventures around Berlin and Brandenburg, they kept discovering hidden gems and places off the beaten path. That’s how their guide “Walking on the Wild Side – Streifzüge durch Berlin und Brandenburg” came to life. Inside, you’ll find more than 70 sustainable routes for walks, little adventures, and weekend escapes. You can find the book at independent bookstores and selected local shops.

Rübezahl bus stop (bus 169), Rübezahl hiking car park, 12559 Berlin–Köpenick; map

@walkingonthewildsideofberlin

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RRAM: NOSTALGIC THAI CUISINE — RECOMMENDED BY GRETA BUSCHHAUS

RRAM: NOSTALGIC THAI CUISINE — RECOMMENDED BY GRETA BUSCHHAUS

Anyone looking for Tom Kha Gai and mango sticky rice will search in vain. But there’ll be no disappointment, because what they will find is far better: Thai home cooking. Rram is the result of extensive research in Thailand, spanning three-Michelin-star restaurants to street stalls, drawing on generational recipes and testing and refining authentic Thai cuisine.

You can taste and feel the nostalgia this restaurant concept is built on. If you do it right (order several dishes), the small table will overflow with delicacies: from minced pork with Thai basil to grilled corn with datterini tomatoes.

Rram doesn’t think of its cuisine as a collection of individual dishes, but as an interplay. To me, they also work brilliantly on their own, but the more, the merrier! That principle of interplay runs through the restaurant: tables are set with vintage-look plates in floral, ornamental patterns, Deutschrap plays in the background, and Thai posters hang on the walls.

Meat-eaters shouldn’t leave without ordering Panaeng Moo (smoked panaeng curry with pork cheek, chili and Thai basil). Plant-based eaters are far from forgotten. 33.3 percent of the menu is vegan — even the fish sauce has been “veganized.”

Rram is a triumph thanks to the creativity of chef Don Santanaviboon, who, at just 31, has now opened his third restaurant with this one. As a fan of his previous restaurants, Tossakan and Maiyarap, I’d venture to say, with Rram, he’s outdone himself. Word is getting around, and anyone wanting to go should book straight away. And those still missing those supposed Thai classics, try mango sticky rice and tom kha gai in cocktail form: Cream & Mamuang and Tom Kha Sour.

Text: Greta Buschhaus / Photos: Rram

Six years ago, Greta Buschhaus moved from London to Berlin and has lived in Mitte ever since. She works as a journalist, mostly covering political topics. In her private life, she’s drawn to restaurants across the city.

Rram, Torstr.173, 10115 Berlin–Mitte; map

@rram.berlin

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P60: A HOME FOR EAST ASIAN CULTURE & PERSPECTIVES — RECOMMENDED BY HILDA HOY

P60: A HOME FOR EAST ASIAN CULTURE & PERSPECTIVES — RECOMMENDED BY HILDA HOY

There’s no doubt East Asian culture is having its moment in the spotlight. A translation of a Taiwanese novel won this year’s International Booker Prize. K-pop stars have become household names. Over on TikTok, Gen Z-ers are going viral for “Chinamaxxing” — sipping warm water and doing the qigong exercises favored by tracksuit-wearing Asian grannies. Here in Berlin, a new noodle, ramen, or dumpling shop seems to be opening every week. As for fostering East Asian cultural experiences, Berlin now has a place for that too.

Opened in late 2025 in Wedding’s Soldiner Kiez, P60 creates space for East Asian perspectives. P60’S expansive storefront is shared with Encounters Bookspace and Impression Taiwan (the organizer behind Berlin’s Taiwan Film Festival). While books and film are at the heart of P60, the events program embraces contemporary East Asian culture in its many facets, with food pop-ups, exhibitions, craft workshops, and experimental concerts regularly filling the space.

Encounters Bookspace is run by Mary Lee and has a particular focus on indie literature, art, and culture from Hong Kong, Taiwan, and the surrounding region. The collection includes novels, graphic works, zines, and art books, mostly in Chinese but also in other languages, representing the wide breadth of East Asian diasporic experiences and creative output.

In the coming days and weeks, Mary and her P60 co-founders have put together a varied series of events. Tomorrow (18.09.2026), Encounters’ evening concert series returns to welcome composer Shuoxin Tan and artist Jiyun Park, amongst others, showcasing experimental work that explores spectral resonance and sounds at the edge of human perception.

On Sunday (20.09.), the space will host a book launch for narrative and sound artist Yang Yu-Chiao, whose new work The Oral Generative World reframes and retells folktales from around the world. The event will culminate with a performance featuring Yang and Berlin-based sound artist Eric Wong, bringing ancient stories to life through voice and sound.

From next week (25.09.), the space will host screenings for the annual Taiwan Film Festival, with the German premiere of From Island to Island (由島至島). The documentary interweaves oral histories and archival material to tell the complex story of Taiwanese soldiers and civilians in Southeast Asia during WWII, when Taiwan was still under Japanese colonial rule. The film’s director, Lau Kek-huat, will hold a special masterclass at P60 on the delicate art of Filming Histories That Resist Being Remembered (27.09.). To take part, submit an application. 

And I’m especially looking forward to 26.09., when folktale performer Yang Yu-Chiao returns to P60 to lead The House of Onomatopoeia, an immersive performance with five artists positioned around the space, intertwining cello, poetry, and electronic sound into a multilayered soundscape.

Text: Hilda Hoy / Photos: P60

Hilda Hoy is a Taiwanese Canadian writer, editor, and translator based in Berlin since 2008. She is the author of the newly published book Mother Tongue, a collection of lyric essays on the cultural and linguistic disorientation of growing up mixed-race in Taiwan. Mother Tongue is available for purchase at Encounters Bookspace.

P60, Prinzenallee 60, 13359 Berlin–Wedding; map

@hildahoy
@impression.taiwan
@encounters.hongkong

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EIS-CAFÉ SUPRISE: WARMTH IN WEISSENSEE SINCE 1979 — RECOMMENDED BY VALERIJ STEFANISCHIN

EIS-CAFÉ SUPRISE: WARMTH IN WEISSENSEE SINCE 1979 — RECOMMENDED BY VALERIJ STEFANISCHIN

For a traditional afternoon coffee and cake, Eis-Café Surprise in Weißensee is my perfect spot. I’m continually amazed by the unwavering, grandmotherly warmth with which Michaela Greupner and her team run this café.

Michaela Greupner started there as a waitress in the ’90s and took over as the new owner a decade later. As a result, she knows every regular who has been coming by for years. The moment I step through the door, I’m struck by the atmosphere of a truly special place. A wood-paneled counter, red fabric on the benches and chairs, floral tablecloths, and real cut flowers — their own still life. Something nostalgic stirs in me. Orchids on the windowsill, just like at my grandmother’s, complete the cosiness.

The cake display case is generously stocked with homemade treats. Poppyseed cake and blueberry cream torte. Black Forest gateau and Viennese apple cake. Chocolate ring cake as well as Eierschecke. I struggle to decide every single time. The menu doesn’t make it any easier. A variety as abundant as the filled cream puffs, as colorful as the Tropicana sundae. The classics are all here: banana split and spaghetti ice cream, hot fig or fire cherry. Alongside my classic filter coffee, I order a peach melba and watch it being assembled with precision and devotion, despite every seat inside and out being taken. Vanilla ice cream, peach, cream, syrup, praline crunch, wafer. I tuck in with as much devotion.

Ice cream in a cone or a cup is on offer too, and it’s just as homemade: soft-serve, milk-and-cream ice cream, and sorbets. Strawberry matcha has recently joined the classics. For all its consistency, Michaela keeps an eye on the times.

I sit and watch the lively bustle of the coffee house. I linger. I observe. Regulars are greeted with hugs; their families are asked after. There’s always time for that here. As a guest, you’re in no hurry. Orders come in several rounds — the selection is, after all, as vast as the temptation itself, to which one surrenders without a shred of guilt. Even on a weekday, this is the perfect spot for a cup of café crema and streusel cake. Or perhaps Palatschinken instead? For me, on this sunny afternoon, there’s a lemon ice soda to cool down and Black Forest cherry gateau.

Text & Photos: Valerij Stefanischin

Valerij Stefanischin is an architect who has been studying photojournalism at the Ostkreuzschule für Fotografie in Weißensee since 2026. Born in Kazakhstan and raised near the Black Forest, he moved to Berlin in 2018 for his first job. Ever since, he’s preferred to explore his new home on foot — always on the hunt for authentic places.

Eis-Café Surprise, Langhansstr.136, 13086 Berlin–Weißensee; map

@eiscafe_surprise

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A QUICK TRIP TO ZEHLENDORF: THREE CULINARY TIPS — RECOMMENDED BY MARIE BERKMANN

A QUICK TRIP TO ZEHLENDORF: THREE CULINARY TIPS — RECOMMENDED BY MARIE BERKMANN

Zehlendorf is better known for its beautiful lakes and villas than for culinary hotspots. If you pass through, it’s probably by bike or S-Bahn on your way to Schlachtensee. In recent years, quite a bit has changed, and it’s worth making more than just a quick stop if you’re a foodie.

Start your morning at PadoK, the district’s only sourdough bakery. Located not far from Zehlendorf S-Bahn station, step into this artisan bakery’s light-flooded space. I order a sourdough croissant — one of the best in the city, in my opinion — and enjoy it with a cappuccino. And while you’re at it, definitely take a few rolls or a loaf of bread home with you. The name, by the way, is a nod to the Brazilian “padoca”, a neighborhood bakery from the home country of owners Désirée Klingbeil Ciocchi and Marcelo Esteves Ciocchi.

For a sweet afternoon snack, stop for ice cream at Artigiani, which means “craftsmanship” in Italian. Since 2019, two childhood friends from Italy, Enrico Piccin and Nicola Piccin-Ossi, have been living up to that name, making their ice cream by hand, with great success. Their creation “Mediterraneo,” with olive oil, rosemary, and lemon, took third place in the German final and even eleventh place in the world final of the Gelato Festival World Masters. The vegan selection is also a delight. Flavors like Peanut Butter Jelly or Gran Torino (espresso with hazelnut) hold their own against milk-based flavors when it comes to creaminess.

Your Zehlendorf visit finds the perfect ending at La Smorfia, the district’s only Neapolitan pizzeria. In this small, cozy spot, the focus is on high-quality ingredients, a pizza dough that gets plenty of rest before baking, and a tomato sauce whose fruitiness is second to none. Alongside classics like Bufalina, Diavola, or a Bianca variation with mortadella, the menu also offers vegan options and the namesake pizza, La Smorfia: half Margherita, half calzone with ricotta and spicy salami. Finish with a heavenly tiramisu, and your culinary excursion is complete.

Text: Marie Berkmann / Photos: Artigiani, Padok, Marie Berkmann

Marie has lived in Berlin for 15 years. She pursues her passion for good food and travel not only on her Instagram channel, but also as a project manager in the organic industry. When she’s not eating, she’s training — for the Berlin Marathon, for example, or coaching others on the bike.

Padok, Clayallee 353A, 14169 Berlin–Zehlendorf; map

Artigiani Eis am Schlachtensee, Matterhornstr.54, 14129 Berlin–Zehlendorf; map

La Smorfia Pizzeria Napoletana, Teltower Damm 47, 14167 Berlin–Zehlendorf; map

@padok.berlin
@artigianiberlin
@lasmorfia_berlin

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