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SMALL PLATES TO SHARE AT THE RESTAURANT GLASEREI — RECOMMENDED BY FRIEDERIKE SCHILBACH

SMALL PLATES TO SHARE AT THE RESTAURANT GLASEREI — RECOMMENDED BY FRIEDERIKE SCHILBACH

With the sun setting on our faces, we stroll along Mehringdamm, the wide connecting axis between the city center and Tempelhof Airport. The large windows of Glaserei reflect the last glimpses of sunlight. When you walk into a new restaurant and it immediately feels like it’s always been there, you know it’s going to be a wonderful evening. Markus Schädel, from Schädels in Oderbergerstraße, and Albrecht Sprenger have opened their new restaurant with a bar and grill concept in the former glazier’s store. In the middle of the room stands a large zinc counter, bar stools and a few tables. They serve a variety of grilled dishes such as merguez with Provençal ketchup, sea bream fillet with lemon butter, grilled vegetables with pecorino, grilled pulpo, green asparagus, or rillette of smoked trout, fish soup with saffron, cannellini beans with baked garlic. We ordered lots of small plates to share, the table so full there was only room left for drinks. Simple dishes, accompanied by a glass of crémant, Chardonnay and potato chips — all served as though we had landed in a bar in Marseille rather than Mehringdamm. Next to us were a few locals and a table of teenagers: All generations coming together. “Just come in for a small plate or two. We cook what we like to eat ourselves,” says Markus Schädel and laughs. The naturalness with which his restaurant comes across is undeniable — unpretentious, delicious, to the point. We’ll be back here soon.

Friederike Schilbach is Editorial Director at Aufbau & Blumenbar. She works with authors such as Cemile Sahin, Rita Bullwinkel and Hengameh Yaghoobifarah. She likes peonies, and her favorite dish at Glaserei is the Sea Bream fillet with lemon butter. She lives with her family in Mitte.

Text: Friederike Schilbach, Milena Kalojanov / Photos: Robyn Steffen

Glaserei, Mehringdamm 49, 10961 Berlin–Kreuzberg; map

@glaserei_bar_grill

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KAKIGŌRI TO COOL OFF AT LUNCHTIME, RAMEN TO SIP IN THE EVENING — FUKAGAWA RAMEN AT TENZAN LAB

KAKIGŌRI TO COOL OFF AT LUNCHTIME, RAMEN TO SIP IN THE EVENING — FUKAGAWA RAMEN AT TENZAN LAB

It was abundantly clear when I traveled to Japan last year: there were to be no limits on my spending or appetite when it came to Kakigōri ice cream and ramen. Since then, I can’t imagine a summer without shaved ice. This is probably why Tenzan Lab has become a firm fixture in Berlin. Nothing soothes and cools a person down more than a Kakigōri ice cream at the bar on a late summer evening, and it serves the added benefit of instantly transporting me back to Japan. For ramen lovers, there’s even more reason to visit Tenzan Lab now that Leonardo Tsubasa has taken over the kitchen since March 2024 from 18h. with his Fukagawa Ramen pop-up. Masataka Namba, the founder of Tenzan Lab, discovered Leonardo’s ramen at the Gendarmenmarkt Christmas market and was so impressed he immediately gave him the chance to share his creations with a wider audience. “Fukagawa” is named after Leonardo’s father’s birthplace, who worked in the catering industry and ran several renowned restaurants in Berlin. With his untimely death, he passed on his passion for cooking to Leonardo — the pop-up’s name is a tribute to him. What makes it so special? He combines both of his parents’ countries of origin in his soups. His mother is Italian, and this is how the truffle ramen (shoyu ramen base) was born, straying from the classic version with a hint of truffle foam and finely chopped truffles. Alongside the “Shoyu Truffle,” the ramen dishes are made with a homemade broth, which he leaves to simmer and infuse for more than ten hours.

Some other options that jumped out at me were “Asari” with clams and garlic butter, and “Tsukemen,” where the noodles are served separately from the broth for dipping. Pair your meal with homemade yuzu lemonade or cold tea, and enjoy gyoza or Leonardo’s edamame special with chili, garlic and parmesan as appetizers. Dessert options may leave you spoilt for choice… Will you drop by in the afternoon and try the menu backward? First, the ice-cold cool-down with Masataka’s Kakigōri ice cream, followed by warm ramen to warm you up in the late evening. Or would you prefer to stick to the classic “first main course, then dessert” option? If the latter, you’re also in good hands at Fukagawa. A matcha or yuzu tiramisu is as perfect a way to round off a warm summer evening as a Kakigōri ice cream from Masataka.

Text & Photos: Robyn Steffen

Fukagawa Ramen, Wörther Str.22, 10405 Berlin–Prenzlauer Berg; map

@fukagawaramen

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IZAKAYA, SUSHI AND BAR COMBINED: SASHIMI, SAKE TASTINGS AND GREAT COCKTAILS AT SAHOI

IZAKAYA, SUSHI AND BAR COMBINED: SASHIMI, SAKE TASTINGS AND GREAT COCKTAILS AT SAHOI

If you fancy an evening full of new discoveries, then Sahoi is just the place for you. Sashimi platters served as “Chef’s Recommendation” with matching dipping sauces, izakaya classics such as Japanese karaage chicken and shrimp tempura, and dishes from the grill like yuzu-miso glazed scallops, beef tataki with truffle mayo, and vegan cauliflower steak with black sesame sauce. In each dish, Japanese ingredients are playfully reinterpreted without overpowering the high-quality fresh produce, such as the fish. The “snacks to share” are suitable for those who are in a bar mood and fancy great cocktails. John is the bartender (and manager) and offers a great selection of unusual drinks, for which he naturally uses Japanese ingredients such as sake, matcha and miso butter. Every month you can look forward to new creations appearing on the cocktail menu, including concoctions with his homemade syrups and infusions. If you prefer to keep things traditional and like to drink sake with your sashimi platter, Sahoi is also the right place for you. The menu offers a sake-tasting, for which John puts together all his favorites. With Sahoi, owners Lani and Khanh wanted to create a place where you don’t have to choose between an extensive dinner or a quick drink at the bar. Whether you fancy an evening of cocktails and small izakaya snacks or want to enjoy the full menu: here you’ll find the perfect setting for almost any occasion — what you make of it is entirely up to you.

Text: Robyn Steffen / Photos: Sahoi

Sahoi, Linienstr.134, 10115 Berlin–Mitte; map

@sahoi.club

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HOUSE OF TANDOOR’S “THE MIGHTY THALI” — INDIAN SUNDAY BRUNCH AT HOXTON CHARLOTTENBURG

HOUSE OF TANDOOR’S “THE MIGHTY THALI” — INDIAN SUNDAY BRUNCH AT HOXTON CHARLOTTENBURG

If your next Sunday brunch is coming up and you’re looking for an exciting new destination, the Hoxton in Charlottenburg is just the place. You don’t have to be a guest at the hotel to enjoy the full House of Tandoor experience, including a stylish backdrop that you don’t expect from a hotel. The entrance has a cosmopolitan look, cozy sofas to linger on, and warm tones throughout the rooms. Would Wes Anderson shoot one of his famously aesthetic movies here? Definitely. It’s not only the interior that leaves a lasting impression; the new brunch concept is equally as impressive. Since mid-February 2024, the House of Tandoor has been offering “The Mighty Thali” family-style brunch every Sunday. Modern Indian cuisine particularly suitable for those who don’t want to choose just one dish to enjoy. On the Mighty Thali platter, the à la carte dishes come together in smaller portions. These include freshly baked naans from the tandoor oven, creamy curries, the House of Tandoor Chicken alongside crispy lamb, fresh salads, and an array of sweet and spicy dips. It makes for the perfect playground to try out new flavor and texture combinations.

Of course, there is also a vegetarian option with zucchini and cauliflower fresh from the tandoor oven, beetroot kebabs and Old Dheji Paneer Makhani. The boozy brunch is well catered for with drinks that pair particularly well with the thali: refreshing Bellinis, chai martinis, or a Nimbu Pani (their non-alcoholic signature). Topped it all off with a fruity sundae and you’re ready for a hotel bed. If you’re wondering how long it’s been since your last staycation, the answer is: far too long! I’ve acquired a taste for it and have to say, a full belly is a great way to relax in a freshly made hotel bed.

Text: Robyn Steffen / Photos: Marie Staggat

House of Tandoor im Hoxton, Meinekestr.18–19, 10719 Berlin–Charlottenburg; map
The Mighty Thali Brunch

@houseoftandoor_berlin
@thehoxtonhotel

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CHALET SUISSE: SWISS CUISINE WITH A MODERN TWIST FROM THE FIRE OVEN IN THE MIDDLE OF GRUNEWALD

CHALET SUISSE: SWISS CUISINE WITH A MODERN TWIST FROM THE FIRE OVEN IN THE MIDDLE OF GRUNEWALD

The restaurant opened its doors for the first time in the seventies, surrounded by beautiful greenery. Back then it still had an outdoor petting zoo, until Josef Diekmann took over the premises in 2000 and turned it into the Chalêt Suisse. The petting zoo became a beer garden with a playground and raised beds and bees were soon to find a permanent home here. The Châlet offers a place to escape year-round. In winter, the open kitchen welcomes you with a country-style open fire, immediately transporting you to a Swiss winter vacation between warm light and rustic wooden tables. In summer, the beer garden breaks up the refined kitchen concept: Neuland meat from the open-air grill, trout from the smoker, hearty burgers, and home-baked fruit tarts — served (of course) with draught beer. The dining area inside is also a hot spot: In the summer of 2022, the family business introduced open-fire cooking offering authentic Swiss cuisine with a modern twist, including special stews from the fire oven. From cheese fondue to sliced Zurich veal with crispy rösti to pulled mushroom with ember eggplant or smoked duck breast, the team uses regional ingredients to create the kind of dishes I can never get enough of: familiar rustic meets exciting new, traditional cuisine meets modern experimentation. If you can’t leave town over the Easter holidays but still fancy an outdoor experience, then this is the place to be. Between chopped firewood and dense greenery, the Châlet Suisse offers the perfect setting for a long-awaited break over the holidays, right in Berlin. 

Text: Robyn Steffen / Photos: Châlet Suisse, Robyn Steffen

Châlet Suisse, Clayallee 99, Im Jagen 5, 14195 Berlin–Dahlem; map

@chalet_suisse_berlin

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