Graefekiez might be one of my favorite neighborhoods to visit for restaurants, cafes, and bakeries. It’s a neighborhood that keeps on giving, and this time around, it was a deli on Böckhstraße, every savory girl’s dream.
Kírkē Deli is owned by Tenia Dimakopoulou and Jannis Avramidis, two longtime friends who decided to join forces. She was the bar chef at Primitiv; he was the Grillmeister at Torbar. Tenia grew up in Piraeus, Jannis in Thessaloniki, and both have called Berlin home for over a decade. Together, they built an intimate deli and wine bar where you can settle in over good food, Greek wine, and a few hours of conversation. And the wine is exactly where I’d start.
Kírkē is the spot for a good bottle of Greek wine, and that alone is reason enough to sit down. We had the Vorias & Helios orange Assyrtiko, which started as a glass and turned into a bottle, as these things do. Especially when seated outside, catching the sun at the end of the day. Then for the food, naturally we started with one of the sandwiches. The mushroom truffle is one we’d order again and again.
If you have a savory tooth like me, then the wild sardines with Greek saffron and the cheese platter are the ideal pairings with that glass of wine. The platter comes with Greek honey, various nuts, and a homemade mushroom jam I’m still thinking about. A lot of the menu is structured around the products themselves. Cheeses, cured meats, and conserves come from Greece, with dishes made around whatever they have in stock. The deli sandwiches are the heart of it, with seafood and vegetable meze alongside.
Sundays have their own ritual: five meze to pair with tsipouro, a little Greek Sunday tradition. The space was designed by friend and architect Johann Muehlthaler. It’s minimal, yet homey. The seats outside are perfect for summer, while inside is just as warm and inviting, so come winter, there’s somewhere cozy to sit. Kírkē has also started bringing in sommeliers and winemakers for guest events, alongside pop-ups with other Berlin chefs. Go hungry, order more than you think you need, and let someone else pick the wine.
Text: Stefania Basano / Photos: Aditya Christian
Kírkē Deli, Böckhstr.50, 10967 Berlin–Kreuzberg; map
@kirke.deli.berlin


