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MA-MAKAN: MALAY-SINGAPOREAN STREET FOOD LANDS IN FLUGHAFENSTRASSE

MA-MAKAN: MALAY-SINGAPOREAN STREET FOOD LANDS IN FLUGHAFENSTRASSE

Since autumn 2019, the marble-topped tables at Neukölln’s YaMe NumNums have been home to more than just their Australasian-style brunches. Now Ma-Makan (a play on the Malay word for “eat”) is running the kitchen Thursday–Saturday, serving up homemade hawker-style Malaysian and Singaporean dishes. From savory chwee kueh (steamed rice cakes topped with salty preserved radish – a dish found nowhere else in Berlin) to slurp-able bowls of fragrant nyonya laksa soup with all the fixings, Ma-Makan quietly boasts one of the most exciting menus in the city. Since 2017, Kaylin Eu has been sharing foods from her childhood alongside new favorites. Our first taste was her nasi lemak at a pop-up in 2018, and ever since we’ve been yearning for more. Now, with a long-term space and a distinctive rotating menu, our wishes have been granted. As Berlin’s gloomy gray months settle in and wear us down, we know where we’ll be seeking refuge: in aromatic bowls of spiced coconut broth. (Text: Devan Grimsrud / Photos: Savannah van der Niet)

Ma-Makan at YaMe NumNums, Flughafenstr.46, 12053 Berlin–Neukölln; map
Thu–Sat 18h30–22h
@mamakanberlin

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NEW TEAM, NEW KITCHEN: REDISCOVERING MARKTHALLEN RESTAURANT

NEW TEAM, NEW KITCHEN: REDISCOVERING MARKTHALLEN RESTAURANT

Having served delicious, hearty food and cold drinks to hungry market workers for over a century, Markthallen Restaurant is a Kreuzberg institution. The restaurant has changed hands over the years, and is now under the care of the trio behind Markthalle Neun: Nikolaus Driessen, Florian Niedermeier and Bernd Maier. While the rustic wood interior retains its nostalgic charm, the difference really shines in the reinvented menu. The carefully crafted rotating menu from new head chef Bastian Laschet (previously at Nobelhart & Schmutzig) is inspired by the fresh produce sourced from the markthalle itself. At its center is slow food, time-honored recipes, and using the whole plant from stem to root. The highlights of our visit: Stuffed Uckermark tomatoes; beef in aspic with chanterelle mushrooms, root vegetables and herbed cream; and Schmorbraten – beef shoulder boiled in a red wine vegetable juice, served on a fried potato biscuit. You’re left full and convinced that Markthallen remains a true classic, well worth revisiting. (Text: Emily Miotke / Photos: Johanna Rademacher-Flesland)

Markthallen Restaurant, Pücklerstr.34, 10997 Berlin–Kreuzberg; map
Tue–Sat 18–0h
@markthallenrestaurant

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O-SLOW: JAPANESE AND LEBANESE CUISINES COMBINE FOR A TRULY MULTICULTURAL MENU

O-SLOW: JAPANESE AND LEBANESE CUISINES COMBINE FOR A TRULY MULTICULTURAL MENU

I’m such a fan of O-slow that I first wanted to keep it all to myself as my ultimate insider restaurant tip. Opened by Mami, Wahid and Wissam in 2018, O-slow is a place full of character and quirky details, where Japanese and Lebanese cuisine are brought together with complete mastery. The best and most special thing about this place is you don’t have have to make endless choices: there is a single, daily menu to choose from. The vegetarian (and vegan-friendly) food reveals a culinary dialogue between the Far East and the Middle East, all conceived and prepared by chef Mami with love. On our visit, we had a coriander–potato salad, brown rice with marinated tofu and edamame, tomato-wakame-miso soup, homemade lemonade and hōjicha (roasted green tea), and some fluffy sfouf (lebanese semolina cake) to finish with. Spending the evening at O-slow with your favorite people, you’re guaranteed to leave relaxed, content and with an unmistakable smile on your face. (Text: Lisa Strube / Photos: Savannah van der Niet)

O-slow, Schwedenstr.3b, 13357 Berlin–Wedding; map
Wed–Sat 18–23h
Join O-slow on 02.11.2019 & for their one-year anniversary.
@o.slow.berlin

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LES EPICURIENS AT MARHEINEKE MARKTHALLE — FRENCH BISTRO AND DELICATESSEN

LES EPICURIENS AT MARHEINEKE MARKTHALLE — FRENCH BISTRO AND DELICATESSEN

Ever been to the Marheineke Markthalle? If not there’s a real pearl hidden here: the bistro and shop Les Épicuriens that opened in 2013. French-born Éric and Frédéric’s love for good food and their neighborhood is evident. Warm and welcoming, they pay attention to quality, working closely with the winegrowers and the French family businesses that supply their charcuterie and traditionally-made cheese. They even make a range of patés in-house. We recommend paring a glass of wine with the cheeses, which include the Mimolette extra vieille (whey cheese), Brie with Périgord truffles, and a Comté from Marcel Petit. But the highlight is the oysters, which are sourced not from Brittany as one would expect, but Oléron in the Atlantic, giving them a slightly milder yet rich taste. For special cheese and meats as well as French gifts like marmalade and chocolate, this is the place to head. And Frédéric has a tip: pick up some oysters for your next Sunday morning breakfast – thanks to their high iodine content, they are an excellent hangover cure. (Text: Katie Burton / Photos: Johanna Rademacher-Flesland)

Les Épicuriens in Marheineke Markthalle, Marheinekeplatz. 15
10961 Berlin–Kreuzberg; map
Mon–Fri 09–20h, Sat 08–18h
@lesepicuriensberlin

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BONVIVANT: THE BAR AND RESTAURANT SERVING A SYMPHONY OF COLOR
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BONVIVANT: THE BAR AND RESTAURANT SERVING A SYMPHONY OF COLOR

A beautiful, eye-catching building in Schöneberg is the home of the new cocktail bistro Bonvivant. Inside the pastel-colored furniture and soft lighting exude quality and attention to detail – the perfect setting for an unforgettable dining experience. To start, try an aperitif mixed by award-winning Yvonne Rahm and served with a dash of aromatic bitters to intensify your sensory experience. The weekly-rotating dishes from top organic chef Ottmar Pohl-Hoffbauer are seasonal, local and all vegetarian. We tried everything: from a ravioli with blue banana and zappho pumpkins and king oyster mushrooms to the gnocchi with chanterelles, broccoli, almonds and lemon. But there is more to Bonvivant: the back room acts as a séparée with a round, revolving table perfect for special occasions. Head further in through the dark curtains past the freezers and you come across a hidden gallery in the basement. No matter how much you feel like a regular here, there’s always more to discover. (Text: Sophie Herzberg / Photos: Johanna Rademacher-Flesland)

Bonvivant, Goltzstr.32, 10781 Berlin–Schöneberg; map
Mon–Sun 18–1h
@bonvivantberlin

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