It was one of those rainy winter evenings when I first walked past the glass front of Lo Fūfu. The window was foggy from the rain — only a shadowy scene could be seen behind it, like something out of a movie: a chef in motion, concentrated, almost dramatic. In the middle of bustling Charlottenburg, where Asian markets, designer stores and international restaurants share the street, find a kitchen that unites Japanese craftsmanship and Italian light-heartedness. It’s all in the name: “Lo” as the Italian article and “Fūfu” as the Japanese word for couples. Influences from both cultures are interpreted as a multi-course menu in omakase style and served almost as if in a personal conversation. At the heart of the restaurant is a long stainless steel counter, where chef Amodio Iezza prepares his dishes right in front of the guests. Iezza refines, he asks, he prepares. For those who prefer a more intimate setting, there are small seating areas for two under soft lighting. The menu features what the team lovingly calls “Omakase Italiano” (highly recommended!), and you can combine individual courses as you wish at any time. They are accompanied by sake, wine and classic cocktails.
Lo Fūfu’s Italian interpretation of the traditional omakase combines eight courses based on four types of fish — sometimes with potato foam, soft egg yolk and bottarga, sometimes with tagliolini and truffle, lemon and parsley. Every single plate delights and surprises — and the similarities between the two cuisines speak for themselves: the fresh seafood, the high-quality meat, and the love of regional and seasonal produce. With room for 26 guests, a visit to Lo Fūfu is intimate yet interactive. As I leave, I take another look through the small glass windows, now even steamier than they were a few hours earlier. I now know what’s hidden behind them, and I can only say it remains just as enchanting as the view from the street hints.
Text & Photos: Robyn Steffen
Lo Fūfu, Kantstr.144, 10623 Berlin–Charlottenburg; map
@lofufu.berlin
