In an unassuming corner of Sprengelkiez lies the best-kept secret of this city’s tiny Taiwanese food scene. The light-flooded, incense-laced interior of Cozymazu — filled with latticed wood lanterns, traditional Taiwanese art and wicker chairs — invites you to escape into an inspired sensory experience. In designing her restaurant’s concept, owner and chef, Wei-En Chan drew upon her nostalgia for the diversity of Taiwanese food culture and her grandparents’ cooking — from scratch, organic, MSG-free. The resulting (veggie- and vegan-friendly) menu reinterprets Taiwanese street food and other classics. Like taro tapioca dumplings served with roasted shiitake mushrooms, coriander, crispy onions and a dark vinegar-garlic glaze. Or the recent addition of hearty bowls like the “Cha Pao Fan”: steamed rice in broth with matcha, salmon filet, edamame and lotus root. Come by on a weekend morning for brunch, accompanied by a variety of fine Oolong and other teas, served in a tiny set. Highlights of the set menu option include the homemade peanut milk, spiced tea eggs and hot steamed raw sugar cake. No detail goes unnoticed in the dishes’ preparation and presentation. As far as culinary ambassadors go, Wei-En is doing her homeland more than proud. (Text: Anna Dorothea Ker / Photos: Mina Aichhorn)
Cozymazu, Sprengelstr.39, 13353 Berlin-Wedding; map
Tue-Fri 12-22h, Sat-Sun 10-22h
