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CAMILLE DARROUX RECOMMENDS: JAJA WINE BAR

CAMILLE DARROUX RECOMMENDS: JAJA WINE BAR

Open since late March 2016 and run by French-German pair Yulja Giese and Etienne Dodet, Jaja is named after a somewhat old-fashioned French slang word used to describe everyday wine. Located on Neukölln’s Weichselstraße, this natural wine bar offers an ever-changing selection of reds and whites as well as the occasional orange wine — a rarity. Each wine currently on offer can be ordered by the glass and is usually priced at 4.50€-6.50€, which makes Jaja a great place to get to know natural wines. You can also purchase bottles — either to-go or to drink in-house — and the selection that the Jaja team put together features many staples of the natural wine world, including wines by Jeff Coutelou — one of the best natural wine makers. However, don’t go here only for the wine: the place frequently hosts pop-up dinners with Berlin’s most sought-after chefs, including Mathias Gondol, a young French chef and dedicated follower of the farm-to-table movement, who takes over the stoves at Jaja every Saturday. (Text: Camille Darroux)

Jaja, Weichselstr.8, 12043 Berlin-Neukölln; map

Tue-Sat 18-1h, Sun 18-22h

Camille Darroux is a digital consultant, freelance writer, and director of Mimosa Agency. She has been living in Berlin for two years.

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HELKA CERAMICS — TASTEFUL CERAMICS IN GRAEFEKIEZ

HELKA CERAMICS — TASTEFUL CERAMICS IN GRAEFEKIEZ

A “feast for the eyes”! Recently I sat in a Kreuzberg restaurant and was thrilled by how tasteful the food was, but also presented on the plates. The eccentric colors of each vegetable (betanin red of the beets, may green of the peas, and juicy yellow of the lemon) and creamy sauces were matched in glorious contrast to the restrained color and design of the restaurant dishes. A nice coincidence? On our way home through Böckhstrasse, we strolled past what appeared to be a new store – full of cups, plates, bowls, and vases in this same understated design – handmade clay objects studio Helka Ceramics. Now that’s a coincidence! If you ring the bell, Lisa Kosak opens the door. The ceramic artist from Belgium has lived in Berlin for many years and first discovered her passion for pottery at a workshop. The passion became a vocation. After a few years of an apprenticeship and four and a half years co-founding a clay workshop in Neukölln, she opened her first studio for her own clay label in March 2023.

The studio’s bright rooms offer plenty of space for craftsmanship. Lisa makes every object from her collections in the Kreuzberg studio – all by hand (from the wheel to the kiln) and in small batches. Her objects bear mouthwatering, tasteful names: Chocolate Cup and Canelé Side Plate in the colors Caramel, Chantilly and Olive. The elegance and quality of her pieces were quickly discovered by Berlin restaurant owners and so collaborations with Kin Dee, JaJa, Lode & Stijn and Barra were born. It’s not just restaurants that enjoy her pieces: Lisa likes to share her knowledge and offers courses at the potter’s wheel – Open Studio Timesingle lessons or in four-week workshops. Lovers of this craft can learn the process in all steps: from the wheel to the firing process in the kiln. Their studio door is also (mostly) open – if you like, be sure to stop by this Saturday (29.07.2023) for the first summer pop-up and dive into the universe of Helka Ceramics!

Text: Milena Kalojanov / Photos: Daniel Farò

Helka Ceramics & Studio, Böckhstr.12, 10967 Berlin–Kreuzberg; map
Summer pop-up 29.07.2023 13–19h

@helkagram

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PARG: GARDEN-TO-TABLE DINING IN THE UCKERMARK ALL SUMMER LONG

PARG: GARDEN-TO-TABLE DINING IN THE UCKERMARK ALL SUMMER LONG

There are no sweeter memories than those of hours spent at a table under a summer sun, surrounded by good company, eating delicious food. For this I cannot think of a better place than Parg – Hannes Broecker and Claude Schötz’s new garden-to-table bistro in the Uckermark. No strangers to the restaurant scene, this duo are the talented two behind the much-loved wine bar, JaJa, in Neukölln. Now they split their time between the two locations, with Hannes in the kitchen, providing unexpected, complex, yet down-to-earth sharing dishes, using only produce picked fresh from their garden (tended to by the talented gardener, Paulina Brachvogel) or in the case of the fish and meat, sourced from local suppliers. On sunny days guests are invited to dine in the garden under the dappled shade of the trees, and when cooler or wetter, tables are arranged in the charming Palm House, built in 1900 to grow California stone fruit. On the sunday we visited, we sat out and enjoyed “Parg Brotzeit” – a platter of homemade breads, accompanied by quark, pickles, meats, and a new personal favorite “Solei” (think pickled eggs, the British pub-classic, but preserved in brine as opposed to vinegar). Other highlights included “Parg Sourdough Pizza”, one of the best pizza doughs I’ve eaten in a long time, topped with black garlic and mustard leaf (straight from the garden of course), as well as grilled char, topped with carrots, horseradish and dill. A summer day isn’t complete without ice cream and Parg have created a playful take on the popular dish Spaghetti Ice – made with rhubarb, condensed milk and rhubarb root oil. The wine is also not to be overlooked – it’s no surprise with their background at JaJa that Claude is able to recommend a wonderful selection of accompanying natural wines.

Once satisfied, stay a while and wander the gardens, read a book on the grass, or do like we did and squeeze in a second ice cream handmade by the charismatic Götz Bargende at Illegal Gelato; then cross the road over to On Studio, where you will find the ceramics your Parg meal was served upon. Finally stop by one of the many local lakes for a clarifying dip, before you start the journey home. This weekend (24. & 25.06) there is even an extra attraction – with Anna Falck–Ytter hosting her Cyanotypie Workshop. Sign up here.

Text: Chloë Galea / Photos: Savannah van der Niet

Parg at Grosser Garten, Dorfmitte 11, 17268 Gerswalde; map
Sat & Sun from 13h. You can book a table here.

@_parggg_

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TACOS, NATURAL WINE AND ART IN THE HEART OF MARZAHN — ARMA STREET FESTIVAL

TACOS, NATURAL WINE AND ART IN THE HEART OF MARZAHN — ARMA STREET FESTIVAL

A one-day street festival of art, food, drinks and music, Arma(“Art Marzahn”) is a collaboration between curator Rory Kirk-Duncan, Berlin-based beverage brands Avaa and Volée, and creative agency No Service 24/7. The festival takes place in the Georg Knorr area in Marzahn where a mixed-use neighborhood of residential and commercial space by Chipperfield Architects is set to open in 2027. Coinciding with Art Week, the program begins on Saturday (17.09.2022) from 14h with sculptural and multimedia works by the artist Malte Bartsch. Both Kirk-Duncan and curator Annalena Amthor will be giving guided tours throughout the day, and you won’t go hungry either: food comes courtesy of tacos by Victoria Tacos, sourdough pizza by Jaja and grilled cheese and desserts by Pars. For drinks, ViniCulture and Nature’s Calling will be serving natural wine and Avaa Verjus & Volée aperitifs (non-alcoholic versions also available).

Marzahn kombucha label Bouche, who have their brewery at the location, will also open their doors to visitors to celebrate three years in the district. If you’re curious to see what a commercial sized “scoby” culture looks like, this is your chance! Arma is just five minutes walk from S-Bahn Marzahn, which is just 25 minutes from Alexanderplatz – not as daunting a journey as you might think!

Text: Kate Foran / Photos: Nature’s Calling & Bui Luu Quynh Nguyen / Credit: Arma & Malte Barsch

Arma, Georg-Knorr-Str.4, 12681 Berlin–Marzahn; map
17.09.2022 from 14h

@artmarzahn

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IT’S ONLY NATURAL: RAW WINE TAKES OVER MARKTHALLE NEUN

IT’S ONLY NATURAL: RAW WINE TAKES OVER MARKTHALLE NEUN

Berlin’s natural wine boom is showing no signs of abating, given the spate of recent openings dedicated to organic, biodynamic and low-intervention wine: In Neukölln alone, MotifNaturales and Ladidadi have recently followed in the footsteps of benchmark-setting Jaja. This week (9-16.5.2018), the viticulture movement is being celebrated across Germany under the banner of Raw Wine Week, culminating in Berlin’s Raw Wine fair on 13-14.5.2018 at Markthalle Neun. Established by Master of Wine Isabelle Legeron and now in its 14th iteration internationally, Raw Wine is a coming together of producers, sommeliers, sellers and drinkers in celebration of the craft. It’s by no means just an industry event, however — accessibility, education and, of course, enjoyment is the point here. Take the opportunity to scrub up on the history and practices behind natural winemaking, improve your tasting note vocab, and discover favourite new varietals, all whilst sampling a glass or two. (Text: Anna Dorothea Ker / Photos: Raw Wine)

Markthalle Neun, Pücklerstr.34, 10997 Berlin-Kreuzberg; map
Raw Wine Berlin, 13-14.5.2018, 10-18h

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