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BOMBAY CAFÉ BUNTY’S — A NEW ERA FOR INDIAN CUISINE IN BERLIN

BOMBAY CAFÉ BUNTY’S — A NEW ERA FOR INDIAN CUISINE IN BERLIN

In the 19th century, the city of Mumbai (then Bombay) heaved with grand dining rooms run by Parsi emigrants. Nicknamed Bombay or Irani cafés, they served diverse traditional dishes, each with their own signature flair. This is the concept of Charlottenburg’s new haunt, Bunty’s, which opened in October 2018. Owner Suhasish “Bunty” Chakraborty and head chef Rajbir Singh have designed the menu to read like a culinary journey through the Indian subcontinent, adapting to market availability, seasonality and dietary preferences. We began with delicately spiced housemade chai and a fresh mango lassi before indulging our taste buds in an extravaganza of rich spices, textures and flavors. Our main course featured battered kale served with tamarind chutney, mint yoghurt and pomegranate, followed by marinated fish steamed in banana leaves and a South Indian hopper (a thin, crispy pancake made from rice flour and coconut milk) with vegetable curry. The service here is as warm as the food is satisfying; the interior embodies a pared back elegance. We’re calling it: Bunty’s is single-handedly ushering in a new era for refined Indian dining in Berlin. (Text: Anna Dorothea Ker / Photos: Pamina Aichhorn)

Bombay Café Bunty’s, Knesebeckstr.18, 10623 Berlin-Charlottenburg; map

Tue-Fri 12-23h, Sat-Sun 17-23h

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MOLECULAR MADE MODERN: HAUTE LEVANTINE CUISINE AT PRISM

MOLECULAR MADE MODERN: HAUTE LEVANTINE CUISINE AT PRISM

Since Glass closed in early 2018, food critics have been waiting with bated breath for Gault Millau-awarded Israeli chef Gal Ben-Mosche’s next move. The answer is Prism, and the concept consists of the same trademark quality and creativity made a notch more accessible. Don’t be fooled by the dramatic interior and theatrical lighting — the service here is friendly. One of Germany’s top 50 sommelières, Jacqueline Lorenz is as affable as she is knowledgeable; particularly impressive is her range of Middle Eastern wines. The smoky Château Ksara Chardonnay Cuvée du Pape 2015 from Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley superbly balances with the first round of the (fairly priced) “social menu” (all eight dishes presented as sharing plates over three courses): Armenian cucumber with sesame, labneh and sumac, chopped liver with foie gras, apple and onion and yellowfin tuna with okra, purslane and jameed. And to finish? The evocative “olive oil, mandarin, almond” dessert embodies the finesse and vision of this talented young chef. (Text: Anna Dorothea Ker / Photos: Ben Fuchs)

Prism, Fritschestr.48, 10627 Berlin-Charlottenburg; map

Thu-Mon 18-24h

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SERGE ROMPZA RECOMMENDS: NANUM

SERGE ROMPZA RECOMMENDS: NANUM

It’s hard to imagine that Korean cuisine was unchartered territory in Berlin only a few years ago. The now-burgeoning scene welcomed its latest addition in July 2018: NaNum. After her successful career as an alto singer, chef Jinok drew upon her love for cooking to create a homey café in a sleek, modern building, offering sophisticated, high-caliber South Korean cuisine. On the weekends, the authentic, seasonally-changing classics like cold buckwheat noodles, refined soups and traditional bibimbap are just as popular as the surprisingly experimental and beautifully-presented desserts “FlowerPop” and “Man Dzu.” Everything here is homemade — even the plateware, which are molded, baked and exhibited on site. The restaurant is worth visiting on a regular basis in order to absorb each element of Jinok’s passions: cooking, ceramics and singing. (Text: Serge Rompza / Photos: Pamina Aichhorn)

NaNum, Lindenstr.90, 10969 Berlin-Kreuzberg; map

Café and ceramics gallery: Mon-Fri 12h-19h, Sat 3-2

Restaurant: Fri 12-22.30h, Sat 15-22.30h

Serge Rompza has lived in Berlin since 2003. He is the co-founder of the design studio Node Berlin Oslo.

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DINGSDUMS — LUSH DUMPLINGS FILLED WITH SALVAGED PRODUCE

DINGSDUMS — LUSH DUMPLINGS FILLED WITH SALVAGED PRODUCE

This brightly-fronted Kreuzberg joint, opened in summer 2018, sparks curiosity not only due to its tongue-twisting title, but also on account of its original concept. The creative minds behind DingsDums Dumplings, Ann-Kathrin Wohlrab and siblings Mauritz and Jilianne Schröder, fill their dumplings with salvaged ingredients, which — though still perfectly edible — would otherwise have been thrown away due to oversupply or a mere flaw. Spontaneity and creativity therefore set the tone of the menu, giving rise to unusual and delicious fillings like feta kimchi, guinea fowl curry or coconut rice pudding with apple sauce. As the type and quantity of the produce varies daily, there’s no guarantee of any one flavor’s availability — instead, this sustainably-minded concept offers the pleasure of continual surprise. (Text: Lisa Staub / Photos: Pamina Aichhorn)

DingsDums Dumplings, Wiener Str.34, 10999-Berlin Kreuzberg; map
Thu-Sat 12-24h

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GAZZO — FEEL-GOOD SOURDOUGH PIZZA & PROSECCO ON TAP

GAZZO — FEEL-GOOD SOURDOUGH PIZZA & PROSECCO ON TAP

Named after the loan shark from the Rocky films, Neukölln’s latest pizza-slinging joint has been full from day one. It could be thanks to the pink neon sign on its inviting pumpkin-colored exterior, outside which a Vespa is often parked. Or the Prosecco on tap and range of Italian spritzes. Not to mention its perfectly crispy organic sourdough pizza base recipe, which is fired at a slightly lower cooking temperature than the classic Neapolitan style. But what we suspect keeps the punters coming back for more is Gazzo’s buffalo milk offerings: Manifested in the mozzarella di buffala starter — plump, silky and served with chunks of colorful tomatoes. Or atop several of the nine pizzas — together with, for example, roasted aubergine, caramelised garlic and onions and pecorino. Autumn specials like nutty charred kale, smoked provolone, caramelised onion and organic mountain parmesan make it hard to stick to just one pizza. But sacrifices are sometimes worth making — like for the (Brandenburg) buffalo milk soft serve, drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with sea salt. It’s indulgent, and leaves you feeling in high spirits — as does the cheeky interior of this establishment, which feels like it’s been a fixture in this neck of the woods for far longer than just two months. (Text: Anna Dorothea Ker / Photos: Augusta Leigh)

Gazzo, Hobrechtstr.57, 12047 Berlin-Neukölln; map
Tue-Sun 17-22h

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