There are no sweeter memories than those of hours spent at a table under a summer sun, surrounded by good company, eating delicious food. For this I cannot think of a better place than Parg – Hannes Broecker and Claude Schötz’s new garden-to-table bistro in the Uckermark. No strangers to the restaurant scene, this duo are the talented two behind the much-loved wine bar, JaJa, in Neukölln. Now they split their time between the two locations, with Hannes in the kitchen, providing unexpected, complex, yet down-to-earth sharing dishes, using only produce picked fresh from their garden (tended to by the talented gardener, Paulina Brachvogel) or in the case of the fish and meat, sourced from local suppliers. On sunny days guests are invited to dine in the garden under the dappled shade of the trees, and when cooler or wetter, tables are arranged in the charming Palm House, built in 1900 to grow California stone fruit. On the sunday we visited, we sat out and enjoyed “Parg Brotzeit” – a platter of homemade breads, accompanied by quark, pickles, meats, and a new personal favorite “Solei” (think pickled eggs, the British pub-classic, but preserved in brine as opposed to vinegar). Other highlights included “Parg Sourdough Pizza”, one of the best pizza doughs I’ve eaten in a long time, topped with black garlic and mustard leaf (straight from the garden of course), as well as grilled char, topped with carrots, horseradish and dill. A summer day isn’t complete without ice cream and Parg have created a playful take on the popular dish Spaghetti Ice – made with rhubarb, condensed milk and rhubarb root oil. The wine is also not to be overlooked – it’s no surprise with their background at JaJa that Claude is able to recommend a wonderful selection of accompanying natural wines.

Once satisfied, stay a while and wander the gardens, read a book on the grass, or do like we did and squeeze in a second ice cream handmade by the charismatic Götz Bargende at Illegal Gelato; then cross the road over to On Studio, where you will find the ceramics your Parg meal was served upon. Finally stop by one of the many local lakes for a clarifying dip, before you start the journey home. This weekend (24. & 25.06) there is even an extra attraction – with Anna Falck–Ytter hosting her Cyanotypie Workshop. Sign up here.

Text: Chloë Galea / Photos: Savannah van der Niet

Parg at Grosser Garten, Dorfmitte 11, 17268 Gerswalde; map
Sat & Sun from 13h. You can book a table here.

@_parggg_

Traditional practices, refined aesthetics and a deep respect for quality ingredients – nothing fascinates me more than the food culture of Japan. It’s so much more than just sushi and ramen, but the principle is always the same: craft takes the most important role, along with the right ingredients. With Torikabin, you can literally experience this firsthand in the summer above the rooftops of Kreuzberg. The dinner project is part of Stoke, a concept by Jeffrey Claudio, Jessica Tan and Niklas Harmsen. Jeffrey worked among others at Burnt Ends in Singapore, and Jessica Tan spent a long time at Ralae Group in Copenhagen. With Torikabin, they have created a temporary installation where they can realize their vision of wood fired cooking and warm hospitality. Throughout summer 2023, a small wooden cabin stands on the roof of Aufbau Haus on Moritzplatz, with a traditional noren waving along to the rhythm of the wind at the entrance. You sit close together on wooden stools, and in the middle is the open kitchen, where Jeffrey prepares the yakitori skewers before your eyes. Yakitori traditionally consists of chicken meat barbecued over an open fire. The meat is seasoned with salt and pepper or dipped in a “tare” sauce, mixed together from soy sauce, mirin and sake. Sounds simple? Maybe – but the simpler the ingredients, the less room there is to cover up mistakes. The meat is served accompanied by seasonal pickled vegetables, rice and a potato salad I’ll probably rave about forever.

There’s also a vegetarian menu: the skewer concept remains, with tofu, grilled cheese and various vegetables prepared for you on the wood fire. In the evening Jessica pours the wine, mixes whisky and soda drinks and serves Berliner Fuerst Wiacek beer. To top it off are grilled strawberries – really memorable strawberries. For Jeffrey, Jessica and Niklas, Torikabin is an art installation, for me the evening was so much more. This is where craftsmanship, hospitality, the most tender chicken, Japanese highballs and flames meet amidst sunset views over Berlin. FOMO? Absolutely justified at Torikabin!

Text & Photos: Robyn Steffen

Torikabin at Aufbau Haus, Prinzenstr.84.1, 10969 Berlin–Kreuzberg; map

Thu–Sat 18–23h, until the end of August 2023. First sitting 18–20h, second sitting 20h30–22h30. You can make reservations here.

@stoke.berlin