The antique leaded glass windows are open, a breeze wafts through the room, the daylight shades of cool blue, intermingled with touches of pastel glass under the richly decorated ceiling that feels a thousand feet high: for years, Richard has been undisputedly one of the city’s most tasteful restaurants. In the hall-like space on Köpenicker Strasse, Hans Richard has been serving up Michelin-starred cuisine that could probably best be described as classic French with a constant international dialogue and eclectic vegetables. The walls have been covered with works by many artists, from Rose Wylie, Bernhard Martin and Araki to their current display of Klossowski, Kiesewetter, Alec Soth and Nikolaus List. The selection of works is full of taste, dialogue and eclecticism, as can also be seen throughout the interior. But wait a minute. Let’s start again from the beginning: The historic leaded glass windows are open, a breeze blows through the room – and it’s Monday? And where are the white tablecloths? Everything is looser. More open. Permeable. For two weeks now, Richard has also been one of the most beautiful bistros in the city from Sunday to Wednesday. What does that mean? Food à la carte. French bistro classics (oysters, tartare, fries) with Mediterranean touches (anchovies, taboulé, baba ganoush).
This is clear, for example, in the sweet bell pepper roasted with Spanish pimentón de la vera, dipped in Italian bagna cauda and served with Levantine labneh. Many dishes are small and cold, which is great because you can try them all (or share them, of course). Warm main dishes, which come to the tables in steaming copper pots, are specifically designed for sharing. There’s a bouillabaisse (which is so good you could manage it on your own), and a whole braised shoulder of lamb from Müritz. Enough for four to six people, it comes with dried apricots, onions and almonds. The perfect Sunday roast (they’re open on Sunday from noon on). Afterwards, you have to have a Meringue Suisse. The pavlova-like concoction tastes like a cloud on which plump little angels float. The historic leaded glass windows are open, a breeze wafts through the room, and you’re lazy, happy, slightly tipsy, and full. The warm-hearted hostess Bernadette brings the bill with a chuckling laugh – and in the end it’s not that high. Oh Richard, how good that you now also have a bistro. We really needed it.
Text: Hilka Dirks / Photos: Robyn Steffen
Richard Bistro, Köpenicker Str.174, 10997 Berlin–Kreuzberg; map
Mon–Wed 18–23h & Sun 12h30–20h30
@richard_bistro_berlin
