A CULINARY TRIP THROUGHOUT INDIA WITH NAVI IN GRAEFEKIEZ

A CULINARY TRIP THROUGHOUT INDIA WITH NAVI IN GRAEFEKIEZ

In October 2024, Navi opened in the middle of Graefekiez. “Navi” comes from Sanskrit and can be translated as “new” — if I could sum up the Indian restaurant in just one word, that would be it. Modern Indian cuisine is served here in a way that many of us have never experienced before. Just a few minutes from Kottbusser Brücke, Navi offers authentic dishes from India’s 28 states and eight union territories, refined with modern techniques, complex spice blends and local ingredients from Berlin and Brandenburg. Chef Shannon Lawrence, born in Mumbai, moved to Berlin a few weeks ago after working as Senior Sous Chef at The Bombay Canteen and as Head Chef at the newly opened Cirqa. At Navi, he now prepares elevated comfort food for guests. The dishes are designed to be shared and embody the idea of coming together and Indian hospitality. Signature dishes, such as Crispy Okra Zunka, a hearty crème brûlée made from chickpea flour with crispy okra and rice papadam, the Navi Special Dal made from white lentils, fried onions and ginger ghee, or the Rasam Prawns with aromatic rasam butter, deep-fried curry leaves and green pepper, bring together familiar Indian flavors from the various micro-cuisines, some of which can be distinguished by very different spices and textures. There are plenty of vegetarian and vegan options on the menu, such as the Achari Tikka, a vegetarian kebab skewer with glazed root vegetables, herb chutney, roasted sesame seeds and pistachio crumble.

Like the menu itself, the ambiance is special and breaks down clichés. An old Berlin building with high ceilings, stucco and wooden floorboards meets furniture specially made for Navi from India — warm shades of green, large origami lamps and hand-painted porcelain plates. To accompany the dishes, Navi serves cocktails named after Indian cities and presents them based on the ingredients or the popularity, such as the #5 Delhi with whisky, rum and masala chai syrup or the #7 Jaipur with vodka, saffron and cardamom. The owners Heena Manglani, Ritesh Taurani and Gurbir Gill show Berlin a new, modern side of Indian cuisine — one that impresses with a lot of heart, many exciting stories and even more little-known flavors.

Text: Robyn Steffen / Photos: Sophie Doering

Navi, Graefestr.83, 10967 Berlin–Kreuzberg; map

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