A place that is accessible to everyone, but especially to those who usually have to go without. This is the concept behind Wanda. Wanda are Marion Klammer and Moritz Schwenk. Both have worked for several years in upscale Michelin-starred restaurants (including Horváth, where they met) and launched their own project at the end of May 2024: a brunch pop-up offering all gluten-free and vegan dishes. Marion herself has suffered from coeliac disease since birth — with Moritz, she has created a place where a gluten-free diet is taken seriously. Here, the techniques and knowledge they have gained from Michelin-star cuisine combine with affordable prices to make them accessible to all in the old premises of Lode & Stijn, which closed at the end of last year (2023). The menu includes hearty dishes for late night party goers, as well as light dishes for those who want a balanced, healthy brunch. Seasonality is also important to Marion and Moritz. The menu changes regularly, aside from signature dishes which remain but are slightly adapted from time to time. The “Chicken 5000”, is a twist of the classic fried chicken with oyster mushrooms. Then there’s the French toast, which is served with blueberries and ice cream.

Like the food menu, the drinks at Wanda remain straightforward: good coffee, lemonade and non-alcoholic spritz. For the cocktails, they go with the classics: Espresso Martini and Bloody Mary. The pop-up is scheduled to run until the end of November this year — it’s a test run for Marion and Moritz. For me personally they are asking an important question: what does accessible cuisine really mean? Even if you don’t have dietary restrictions, stop by and see for yourself what gluten-free and vegan dishes have to offer. For all those who do have allergies, I can tell you one thing: your visit will feel a bit like your own birthday party back when you were a child, where once a year you got to choose what was on the menu and picked all your favorites.

Text & Photos: Robyn Steffen

Wanda, Lausitzer Str.25, 10999 Berlin–Kreuzberg; map