It was abundantly clear when I traveled to Japan last year: there were to be no limits on my spending or appetite when it came to Kakigōri ice cream and ramen. Since then, I can’t imagine a summer without shaved ice. This is probably why Tenzan Lab has become a firm fixture in Berlin. Nothing soothes and cools a person down more than a Kakigōri ice cream at the bar on a late summer evening, and it serves the added benefit of instantly transporting me back to Japan. For ramen lovers, there’s even more reason to visit Tenzan Lab now that Leonardo Tsubasa has taken over the kitchen since March 2024 from 18h. with his Fukagawa Ramen pop-up. Masataka Namba, the founder of Tenzan Lab, discovered Leonardo’s ramen at the Gendarmenmarkt Christmas market and was so impressed he immediately gave him the chance to share his creations with a wider audience. “Fukagawa” is named after Leonardo’s father’s birthplace, who worked in the catering industry and ran several renowned restaurants in Berlin. With his untimely death, he passed on his passion for cooking to Leonardo — the pop-up’s name is a tribute to him. What makes it so special? He combines both of his parents’ countries of origin in his soups. His mother is Italian, and this is how the truffle ramen (shoyu ramen base) was born, straying from the classic version with a hint of truffle foam and finely chopped truffles. Alongside the “Shoyu Truffle,” the ramen dishes are made with a homemade broth, which he leaves to simmer and infuse for more than ten hours.
Some other options that jumped out at me were “Asari” with clams and garlic butter, and “Tsukemen,” where the noodles are served separately from the broth for dipping. Pair your meal with homemade yuzu lemonade or cold tea, and enjoy gyoza or Leonardo’s edamame special with chili, garlic and parmesan as appetizers. Dessert options may leave you spoilt for choice… Will you drop by in the afternoon and try the menu backward? First, the ice-cold cool-down with Masataka’s Kakigōri ice cream, followed by warm ramen to warm you up in the late evening. Or would you prefer to stick to the classic “first main course, then dessert” option? If the latter, you’re also in good hands at Fukagawa. A matcha or yuzu tiramisu is as perfect a way to round off a warm summer evening as a Kakigōri ice cream from Masataka.
Text & Photos: Robyn Steffen
Fukagawa Ramen, Wörther Str.22, 10405 Berlin–Prenzlauer Berg; map
@fukagawaramen
