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SWIMMING IN MÄRKISCHE SCHWEIZ: A CIRCULAR HIKE AROUND KLOBICHSEE IN BRANDENBURG’S OLDEST NATURE RESERVE

SWIMMING IN MÄRKISCHE SCHWEIZ: A CIRCULAR HIKE AROUND KLOBICHSEE IN BRANDENBURG’S OLDEST NATURE RESERVE

Märkische Schweiz may, as Theodor Fontane once suggested, hold more charm than meets the eye. Here, between meadows, fields, lakeshores, and pine forests, I found peace and quiet. Most people know Märkische Schweiz through Buckow, and its most famous summer guests, Bertolt Brecht and Helene Weigel. Their stays made the town known far beyond Brandenburg, and Buckow still carries that creative pull that draws artists and writers to it today. East of Buckow lies Klobichsee — smaller and quieter. From Lichtenberg, the NEB takes you to Müncheberg in half an hour, and every time I’m struck by how quickly Brandenburg can be reached by public transport. From Müncheberg, it’s a 40-minute walk along dirt tracks to Dahmsdorf, a village of barely one hundred people. And even from there, we city dwellers are treated to everything that makes the heart race a little faster: old blossoming avenues of linden trees, wheat fields dotted with bright cornflowers and poppies, pastures with grazing horses, a cuckoo calling down from the treetops, and the warm, intoxicating scent of pine in the early summer sun.

Before we reached Klobichsee, we could hear the buzz of voices coming from the swimming area in the distance. We decided to turn our backs on the small bustle and the nearby log cabin settlement and find a little cove all to ourselves for a picnic. Ducks glided through the reeds — or was it an otter after all? A grass snake slithered calmly through the water at our feet. I am an enthusiastic picnic person and love spending time in nature. Still, freshly brewed coffee and homemade sweets are the absolute icing on the cake on a weekend outing. In our case, that meant a still-warm and utterly delicious rhubarb crumble cake at Drei Eichen, a small outdoor café that belongs to a nature and environmental center with a wide-ranging program for all ages. We took a short break there and played a game of chess in the garden. I think by that point my companion had already heard me say things like “Wow, how idyllic is this,” “Oooh, so relaxing,” “Incredibly beautiful,” and “This is simply paradise” at least ten times. After Drei Eichen, we were halfway through the tour and walked west along the shore of Klobichsee back toward Müncheberg. Not without jumping into the cool water on the final stretch, letting the sun dry us, and watching the reflections on the water beneath the canopy of an alder tree. My last “Incredibly beautiful!” before we headed back to Berlin, refreshed and grateful for the outing.

Text & Photos: Laura Iriondo

Hiking Tour

@fortuna.forest

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SUN, BEER & PINSA BY THE WATER: BIERGARTEN EISWERDER

SUN, BEER & PINSA BY THE WATER: BIERGARTEN EISWERDER

When the heat goes to your head, between Berlin’s asphalt and concrete walls, it’s time for a trip to the edge of the city, to Spandau, for example. Here, on a small island, sits Biergarten Eiswerder. From a desire to create a space where people can come together, Johannes Hilliger and Josa Kölbel founded the Berlin Circus Festival in 2015, which now brings more than 10,000 visitors to Tempelhofer Feld each year. With that same idea in mind, they later opened the Biergarten Naumanns in Schöneberg. And now they’ve done the same at Biergarten Eiswerder, which opened in April 2026. Reach Eiswerder Island via the Große or Kleine Eiswerderbrücke. After a few minutes on foot from Haselhorst, or coming from the direction of the Citadel, a backdrop of former industrial architecture opens up, a site that has been developed into a hub for creative, media, and commercial activity. Between the water and red brick buildings lies a spacious beer garden. People sink into deck chairs, groups gather around beer tables, and small wooden huts form the bar and kitchen. A large tent provides shade on hot days and ensures a rainy spring or summer day won’t ruin your visit.

Beer is, of course, the main attraction here, but the alternatives are just as enticing. They even have non-alcoholic beer on tap. It quickly becomes clear that this is no ordinary beer garden. Instead of fries and bratwurst, they serve Italian pinsa. My personal highlight was pinsa with marinated mushrooms and scamorza affumicata. The smoked cheese gives it exactly the right depth. Fresh olives, Italian pinsa, a good beer, and a view of the water, sometimes that’s all it takes to feel, for a moment, as if you are on vacation. Just in time for the start of the World Cup, you can follow the matches at the public screening on the large LED screen. The grounds also have a sandpit for children, as well as table tennis and boules. Whether as a stop before a concert at the Spandau Citadel, a refreshment after a bike ride, or a destination in its own right, Biergarten Eiswerder offers the right setting for all of it. So grab your bike, or take a walk along the water, and discover a little summer oasis on Spandauer See.

Text: Isabelle Marten / Photos: Mohit Almani

Biergarten Eiswerder, Eiswerderstr., 13585 Berlin–Spandau; map

@biergarten.eiswerder

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VALENTINSWERDER: A TRIP TO PERHAPS LAKE TEGEL’S MOST ENCHANTING ISLAND — RECOMMENDED BY WALKING ON THE WILD SIDE
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VALENTINSWERDER: A TRIP TO PERHAPS LAKE TEGEL’S MOST ENCHANTING ISLAND — RECOMMENDED BY WALKING ON THE WILD SIDE

Time for a bit of urban escapism? Then a trip to Valentinswerder is well worth it — a small island in Lake Tegel that still feels like a well-kept secret. Everything here seems slightly removed from the pace of the city, as if time had slowed down just enough to preserve the island’s quietly romantic atmosphere. Even the journey over is part of the experience. Cross by ferry, and as the mainland gradually slips from view, Berlin already begins to feel far away. The crossing has something of a prologue about it, enough time for a quick chat with the ferryman or to let your gaze drift across the water. Valentinswerder is at its best on a sunny morning, when the island is quiet, and you can explore it at your own pace. Once you arrive, circle it in about an hour on an easy walk. Along the way, old villas, weekend houses and colorful wooden cabins sit side by side, framed by carefully tended gardens and mature trees.

To this day, Valentinswerder remains largely in private hands. Only a few people live there year-round, while many of the houses are used seasonally. A walk leads past old villas, lush gardens and wooden piers, and since there is no café on the island, it’s worth bringing your own provisions. Whether you stop for a picnic, sit with your feet in the water, or simply look out across the lake for a while, Valentinswerder is a place that rewards slowness. Even the least romantic souls will find themselves daydreaming here.*

Text: Flavia Lamprecht and Julia Spindelmann / Photos: WALKING ON THE WILD SIDE

In “WALKING ON THE WILD SIDE – Streifzüge durch Berlin und Brandenburg”, authors Flavia Lamprecht and Julia Spindelmann present 70 sustainable routes for short escapes from the city and longer weekend trips. Available at local bookstores and online.

Insel Valentinswerder

*We ask all visitors to respect the privacy of local residents and to behave considerately.

@walkingonthewildsideofberlin

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FLOWERS DONE DIFFERENTLY: CREATE A BOUQUET WITH SNAKEGARDEN
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FLOWERS DONE DIFFERENTLY: CREATE A BOUQUET WITH SNAKEGARDEN

All around, flowers are blooming, and all I want to do is bring a little spring inside. Luckily, I came across Snakegarden, a flower atelier in Berlin where you can have bouquets arranged, and also take part in workshops. Just in time for Mother’s Day on Sunday (10.05.), Snakegarden offers different ways to share floral joy. Will it be a ready-made, colorful bouquet? Or one assembled yourself? Or perhaps a workshop as a shared experience? We’re leaning towards the last option! Snakegarden was founded by Xenia Zarecineva from Chișinău, emerging from her desire to return to hands-on craftsmanship after eight years of digital work. Trained as an interior designer, she began to see flowers as an essential part of spatial composition and immersed herself in traditional floristry. Very quickly, however, she realized she wanted to create something of her own, with a new approach. That’s how Snakegarden came to life. Carefully selected seasonal flowers, plants you wouldn’t typically expect in a bouquet, and contrasts that play with soft and striking forms. Her arrangements are distinct. You can order them online on Tuesdays and Saturdays and have them delivered directly to your home. And for those who want Xenia’s arrangements to become a fixed part of their space, there is a subscription option: fresh arrangements delivered every two weeks. Or get hands-on yourself in a workshop, where you have the chance to build your own bouquet step by step. Instead of simply giving flowers, make them yourself, with a little guidance along the way.

With a focus on craftsmanship, you cut, adjust and build your own colorful piece. If you opt for a one-to-one experience in a private course with your loved ones, you can decide whether you want something traditional, sculptural or minimal, in an ikebana style. From June 2026, curated floristry sets will be available online, so you can be a florist at home. If you’re looking for a special gift, you’re in the right place.

Text: Isabelle Marten / Photos: Mohit Amlani

Snakegarden

@snakegarden.berlin

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A WALK ALONG THE TELTOW CANAL TO THE SCHLEUSE VON KLEINMACHNOW

A WALK ALONG THE TELTOW CANAL TO THE SCHLEUSE VON KLEINMACHNOW

In 1906, Kaiser Wilhelm II inaugurated the Teltow Canal aboard his private yacht, the Alexandria. Today, the boats and their owners may be a little less grand, but the walk along the water is anything but, whether it is raining or the sun is out. Griebnitzsee lies just beyond Wannsee and only a few S-Bahn stops from central Berlin. That’s where this hike begins, though not before a quick stop at the station café Buena Vida Coffee Roasters to top up on caffeine and get ready with rain capes and waterproof pants. The radar promises no quick end to the rain, but there is no such thing as bad weather, only the wrong clothing, and for now our feet are still warm and dry in Gore-Tex shoes, the mood is cheerful, and the coffee is excellent. A short walk through the woods takes us along the Königsweg to the Teltow Canal. What strikes us is how rich the forest sounds: rain tapping on the leaves, birds calling from the treetops now that spring has brought them back. It’s remarkable how little we notice in the soundscape of everyday life, and all the nicer when a trip into nature draws our attention not just to its visual beauty, but to its acoustic beauty as well.

Following the canal bank, the route leads on to Machnower See, where a fine mist hangs over the water. In this setting, sunshine and blue skies would almost feel less fitting. We keep up the pace, though, because 17 kilometers is no short walk, and we want to stay warm. After circling the lake, we arrive at the historic lock in Kleinmachnow. Nearby stands a historic tram car from the former line 96, now converted into a small museum and information point. Since it no longer runs, we head back on foot toward Griebnitzsee station. Luckily, the final stretch leads through the woods again, where the trees shelter us from the rain. Back onto the S-Bahn and homeward bound. But after this walk, the saturated green all around leaves little doubt: rainy days can be beautiful after all.

Text & photos: Laura Iriondo

You can find the hike here.

@fortuna.forest

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