Tucked away in an idyllic, shady backyard in the middle of Kreuzberg, the smell of cheesy crust, homemade spice mixes, and freshly baked dough lures you to Fergy. For those who have danced the night away at Ritter Butzke, the backyard is no stranger. Next to the legendary Butzke, Fergy opened at the beginning of summer 2024 and has been serving Detroit Deep Dish Pizza ever since — a regional specialty from Detroit that gets its typical rectangular shape from the traditional baking pans. After several soft launches, pop-ups and extensive experimentation, chef Martin Müller, Domènec Sanz Janssen and Arne Kienapfel have landed on the perfect formula for their product. Each slice of Deep Dish Pizza contains a portion of the “original sourdough” — affectionately known as Pablo — which has been fed for a year so new dough can be continuously produced. The sourdough, fermented for 24 hours, ensures a fluffy dough and particularly crispy crust. There is a carefully selected mix of different cheeses, as well as in-house spice blends and complementary sauces which you can order for dipping or as a topping. In addition to the classics, such as pepperoni or cheese, there are special variations, such as “Truffle” with truffle sauce, fresh spinach, goat cheese and shaved truffle, or “Louisianan” with crayfish and tarragon pesto. And new on the menu from next week (22.07.2024): the Deep Dish Pizza with sucuk.

The different topping variations and dips, such as the togarashi mayo or “Caesar cream”, are created by Martin Müller, who previously worked at Tisk in Neukölln and as head chef at Oukan. Fergy is a particularly big challenge for him because we all associate certain tastes and personal stories with fast food. For me, I’m transported back to late nights with friends, drive-ins and lingering in parking lots, and the feeling of having arrived home after a long drive from a vacation in Italy. Martin wants to give these dishes a special twist without dampening the memories pizza evokes. Order pizza through a small pick-up window, find a quiet spot in the backyard, and create new, shared memories.

Text & Photos: Robyn Steffen

Fergy, Ritterstr.26, 10969 Berlin–Kreuzberg; map

@fergy_deep

A place that is accessible to everyone, but especially to those who usually have to go without. This is the concept behind Wanda. Wanda are Marion Klammer and Moritz Schwenk. Both have worked for several years in upscale Michelin-starred restaurants (including Horváth, where they met) and launched their own project at the end of May 2024: a brunch pop-up offering all gluten-free and vegan dishes. Marion herself has suffered from coeliac disease since birth — with Moritz, she has created a place where a gluten-free diet is taken seriously. Here, the techniques and knowledge they have gained from Michelin-star cuisine combine with affordable prices to make them accessible to all in the old premises of Lode & Stijn, which closed at the end of last year (2023). The menu includes hearty dishes for late night party goers, as well as light dishes for those who want a balanced, healthy brunch. Seasonality is also important to Marion and Moritz. The menu changes regularly, aside from signature dishes which remain but are slightly adapted from time to time. The “Chicken 5000”, is a twist of the classic fried chicken with oyster mushrooms. Then there’s the French toast, which is served with blueberries and ice cream.

Like the food menu, the drinks at Wanda remain straightforward: good coffee, lemonade and non-alcoholic spritz. For the cocktails, they go with the classics: Espresso Martini and Bloody Mary. The pop-up is scheduled to run until the end of November this year — it’s a test run for Marion and Moritz. For me personally they are asking an important question: what does accessible cuisine really mean? Even if you don’t have dietary restrictions, stop by and see for yourself what gluten-free and vegan dishes have to offer. For all those who do have allergies, I can tell you one thing: your visit will feel a bit like your own birthday party back when you were a child, where once a year you got to choose what was on the menu and picked all your favorites.

Text & Photos: Robyn Steffen

Wanda, Lausitzer Str.25, 10999 Berlin–Kreuzberg; map

@wanda.berlin