Do you know the German word “Abendbrot”? Those light meals with bread, sausage, cheese and pickles from a jar? Familiar foods that give you the feeling of being at grandma’s house. At Jord, the restaurant run by Michelin star chef Björn Swanson, there’s no trace of grandma’s dated furnishings. Instead, you’re surrounded by a minimalist, cozy space that brings a touch of “old” Berlin. A gray cement floor meets white walls, with delicate wood and iron tables arranged under gold-gilded beams. The welcome is warm as you’re led past a well-equipped wine fridge to your table. As for the menu, it carries the word “Tischvoll” (“full table”) and is as streamlined as the interior. Instead of being served one dish after another, all the food is presented at the same time, leaving the order in which you eat up to you.

You’ll find fresh interpretations of Leberwurst, Berlin mustard egg with char fish caviar, pickled vegetables and lettuce á la Oma Irmgard – Swanson’s grandmother. For those less hungry, there’s a pared-down option with bread, butter, radish and cheese. Wine consultant Berdanette Wullich and sommelier Maximilian Kraft keep the glasses full with the finest wines throughout the evening. Simple and sensational, this Abendbrot is one you won’t easily forget.

Text: Ines Spicker / Photos: Lukas Kirchgasser & Ines Spicker

Jord, Brunnenstr.172, 10119 Berlin–Mitte; map
Mon–Sat 18–0h

@jord_berlin

Chocolatier Kristiane Kegelmann came to Berlin in 2016 to conquer the capital’s culinary scene. Since then, her handmade chocolates have been teasing our taste buds with their unique quality and craftsmanship. These one-of-a-kind chocolates are not just regular pralines: every single ingredient has been put together with love and precision. Visually, they are reminiscent of gemstones, with straight lines and hints of pink and gold. It’s a look Kristiane describes as “pure, reduced and to the point”. This style has now been used to create something a bit bigger: a restaurant. Architects DMtk and Some Place Studio were commissioned to transform Café Savigny in Charlottenburg into a bold, straightforward dining room called Pars, opening November 2022. It’s not just a place for chocolates, but a whole new dining destination out west.

Alina Jakobsmeier, Kristiane’s head pastry chef and chef de cuisine, gave us a first (and promising) glimpse into Pars’ fine dining concept at a preview sitting on Saturday (12.11.2022). We were treated to a seven-course menu including paired wines from sommelier Christoph Geyler. Our highlight was the homemade ravioli filled with herb mushrooms in a full-bodied shallot reduction and dill flowers, followed by amaranth, pickled Brussels sprouts and bacon. Alina’s culinary direction is clear and direct: high-quality regional ingredients in dishes that are light, honest and elegant. The restaurant features a large asymmetrical “chef’s table”, which fellow restaurateurs will recognize from their professional cutting boards. The kitchen is open, letting you watch Alina and her team as they work calmly and professionally. With Pars restaurant, Savignyplatz and West Berlin are heading in a very tasty direction indeed.

Text: Laura Iriondo / Photos: Pujan Shakupa

Pars Berlin, Grolmanstr.53, Berlin–Charlottenburg; map 
Tue–Sat 10–16h & 18–23h. Opening 19.11.2022. You can book a table online.

@pars.berlin