BLOMEYER’S KÄSE — CHEESE AND MORE (BUT HOLD THE MUSTARD)

In the past, only the top tiers of the Berlin gastronomy business could order Fritz Lloyd Blomeyer’s cheese. Thankfully, this has finally changed, and the humble customer can too have a slice of cheese paradise at Fritz Lloyd Blomeyer’s store. Opened in May 2015, it’s beautifully spacious, with high ceilings, a large wooden table and sparingly stocked shelves. On offer you will find cheese ranging from the “Peppered Ärschle” to the “Schwarzen Schaf”, and a “Bärlauchcamenbert” (Wild Garlic Camembert) to celebrate the arrival of spring. As for the products he sells alongside his cheese, Fritz Lloyd Blomeyer has no patience for a plain fig mustard. Instead, his stock is complemented by a selection of chutneys, confits, and exotic relishes, like the Hadori relish made from wild knotweed. As with most of his supplies, the relishes come from a personal acquaintance in his home village, with Blomeyer also sourcing delicacies such as handmade nougat, dandelion syrup and freshly baked bread. From the cheese to the wines, everything is German grown, with only one exception: the champagne. This, of course, comes from France – sometimes even Fritz Lloyd Blomeyer has to make an exception. (Text: Eva Biringer / Photo: (left, top) Daniel Farò, (bottom) Bonativo)

Blomeyers Käse, Pestalozzistr.54a, 10627 Berlin-Charlottenburg; map
Tues-Fri 12-19h, Sat 10-19h

Bars, Cafes

THE LOTTA DAILY BAR — HOMEMADE SPECIALTIES WITH REGIONAL INGREDIENTS FOR EVERY TIME OF DAY

Just behind Suarezstraße in Charlottenburg, known as the go-to destination for antique enthusiasts, Lotta Tagesbarreopened in spring 2024. Nestled in the basement of the Carlotta apartment building — a creation by Grüntuch Ernst Architekten, renowned for their transformation of the former women’s prison in Kantstraße into the Hotel Wilmina — the location is no coincidence. Both share a serene inner courtyard, enveloped by the old building’s ivy-clad walls. Within a light-filled, minimalist space, Lotta Tagesbar offers a haven where homemade specialties are crafted from regional ingredients, and guests are invited to linger throughout the day. Mornings commence with specialty coffees and indulgent brunch options: think grilled sourdough layered with pea mash, pickled and fermented vegetable delights, apple bread topped with orange cream, and fresh waffles with berries and crunchy buckwheat. All complemented by freshly squeezed fruit lemonades or their signature chai latte. On my visit, the “Croque Wilmina,” boasting homemade pastrami, Blomeyer’s cheese and kimchi sandwiched between grilled sourdough bread, immediately caught my attention.

Embracing the tradition of Italian day bars, Lotta caters not only to early risers but also to afternoon crowds with enticing aperitivos. Alongside the daily menu, a curated selection of wines, delectable cocktails and evening snacks awaits, featuring homemade vegetable pickles, cream cheese infused with chive oil, goat’s cheese paired with caramelized walnuts, and honey-salted nuts. On balmy summer evenings, Lotta offers a serene escape for early gatherings, tucked away amidst flowing courtyards and verdant foliage, yet centrally located within the city. For those infrequently visiting the West, Lotta Tagesbar beckons with offerings to bring home. Revering the regionality of its offerings, the bar collaborates closely with neighborhood suppliers, showcasing a range of selected products from nearby coffee roasters and Berlin producers, alongside their creations such as jams, granola and pickled vegetables.

Text & Photos: Robyn Steffen

Lotta, Pestalozzistr.55A, 10627 Berlin–Charlottenburg; map

@lotta.tagesbar

Restaurants, Miscellaneous

WILMINA HOTEL AND LOVIS RESTAURANT — HISTORIC ARCHITECTURE, SEASONAL VEGETABLES AND A GOOD NIGHT’S SLEEP

As soon as you enter the second courtyard on Kantstraße 79, it suddenly gets quiet, cool and almost…sacred. From the entrance, a path winds its way towards a building: on the left is a planted wild garden, on the right a patch of abandoned land that has been completely reclaimed by nature. At the end is the entrance to what is now the Wilmina Hotel. It was once the Charlottenburg women’s prison whose 19th century site remains as a listed building. The first courtyard leads to the prison entrance which now serves as the main hall of Lovis Restaurant. The building facing the street is the former district court which has twice served as the venue for Amtsalon, a popup-slash-art-fair bringing together Berlin galleries. The concept, along with the transformation of the site itself, is the work of architects Grüntuch Ernst, who have managed to create a unique place without concealing the buildings’ occasionally dark history (during the Second World War, women resistance fighters were imprisoned there). Instead, the past is ever-present but never overwhelmingly so. The hotel rooms are encased ;in appropriately thick walls where you can sleep under dried flower arrangements in beds so comfortable that it’s no surprise that the hotel tested dozens of mattresses before choosing the perfect one. Everything is tasteful and reverent, unostentatious yet full of soul – something hotels free of the burden of history rarely achieve.

The hotel restaurant, for instance, feels like a restaurant that happens to be by a hotel. Its location allows you to dine without going through the hotel itself, giving you a feeling of absolute privacy. When you enter the bedrooms, your body feels ready to relax: after a shower you’ll want to go to bed with a book and never get up again – unless it’s to pay a visit to the sauna or get some food, that is. If it’s the latter, you’ll be well catered for at Lovis. Chef Sophia Rudolph (who you might know from Panama) serves consistent contemporary German cuisine. The focus here is on seasonal and regional vegetables – and that includes the breakfast, which is served in a special little nook exclusive to hotel guests. You’ll be served the likes of cheese from the Blomeyer’s Käse shop around the corner. Just another reason for a staycation out west – a place that lends itself perfectly to a break from big city life.

Text: Hilka Dirks / Photos: Robert Rieger / Credit: Wilmina

Wilmina Hotel and Lovis Restaurant, Kantstr.79, 10627 Berlin–Charlottenburg; map

Amtsalon takes place 16–18.09.2022. You can reserve a table at Lovis. Hotel bookings can be made online.

@wilmina
@lovisrestaurant
@amtsalon
@gruentuchernst

Bars

KASCHK BY BRLO — CRAFT BEER BAR GETS A NEW MENU AND TASTY BREWS ON TAP

“Sometimes what belongs together comes together,” says Ben Pommer of the reopening of Kaschk. Known for its fine coffee, Scandinavian beers and shuffleboard, the bar now has “by Brlo” tacked onto its name after a takeover by the Berlin master brewers. Some things have remained the same, like the focus on beer: there are 12 varieties on tap, many of them now Brlo brews. My favorite is the Happy Pils, a delicately malty beer that retains a distinct bitterness. But the biggest change is to be found on the menu. As head of gastro at Brlo’s Brwhouse headquarters, Pommer has put vegetables at the forefront, whether fermented, pickled, smoked, or cooked in salt. Now he has “Brloized” Kaschk, meaning there are lots of nice things to accompany your beer with: nuts with Brlo’s BBQ rub, olives cooked with rosemary, thyme and and lemon-orange zest plus a delicious toasted flosame sandwich with mortadella and pistachio cream. The signature dish, however, is the vegan butcher’s plate. It includes beetroot baked in salt dough which is served in wafer-thin bresaola slices and tastes juicy, salty and sweet at the same time. Other highlights include a jackfruit rillette with sweet brandy and vegetarian stock, hay-smoked celery, and a pumpkin parfait that’s far more exciting than the typical vegan pastes. For the carnivores there’s also a non-vegan snack board with cheeses from Fritz Blomeyer and cooked meats from Biomanufaktur Havelland. The accompanying bread comes from the neighboring Zeit für Brot bakery. That said, I would make the trip for the jackfruit rillette alone – not to mention the beer. As for Pommer, he prefers to drink kombucha. To find out why, listen to the latest episode of the Teller Stories podcast where we also reveal how to pronounce the name Brlo correctly…

Text: Tina Hüttl / Photos: Kaschk

Kaschk by Brlo, Linienstr.40, 10119 Berlin–Mitte; map
Mon–Thu 8–2h, Fri 8–3h, Sat 10–3h, Sun 10–2h

@Kaschk

Events, Miscellaneous

URSTROM KAESE — GOURMET CHEESES FROM BRANDENBURG AND MUCH MORE AT THE MARKTHALLE NEUN CHEESE FESTIVAL

With its knobbly charcoal black rind concealing a ripened, rich center, the Mulberry Weichkaese is what you might call a challenging cheese. But then cheesemakers Paul Thomas and Yule Seifert, founders of Urstrom Kaese, never went into the business to make run-of-the-mill Emmental or Cheddar. The British-Belgian duo spent years learning about the art and science of cheesemaking before starting their own creamery in Schöbendorf, a tiny village in Brandenburg 70km south of Berlin. There, they set to work creating cheeses that don’t fit the mold, so to speak. The result is three varieties: the fresh, spreadable Urstrom Frischkaese, the intense and creamy Baruther Urstromtaler and the World Cheese Award-winning Mulberry Weichkaese. All three have a unique, memorable flavor which is thanks to the pair’s scientific backgrounds – Paul studied biochemistry and Yule studied engineering – but also the happy cows that produce the milk.

The bovines in question are a Jersey herd who are allowed to graze on 400 hectares of outdoor pastures to produce the rich, creamy milk that makes the breed famous. If you want to sample the cheeses yourself, this week is the perfect time as Markthalle Neun returns with its Cheese Berlin festival (12–14.11.2021) with three days of tasting and talks. You can taste and buy the Urstrom Kaese range at the Alte Milch shop in the Markthalle – check out the full festival program online.

Text: Benji Haughton / Photos: Anna Warnow for Urstrom Kaese & Markthalle Neun

For more on the topic of cheese don’t miss the latest episode of Teller Stories where milk expert Fritz Blomeyer shares his insights. Out tonight on Podigee, Spotify and wherever you get your podcasts.

Urstrom Kaese is available from select Berlin shops including Alte Milch, Archipel and Albatross Berlin.

@urstromkaese

Language

BLOMEYER’S KÄSE — CHEESE AND MORE (BUT HOLD THE MUSTARD)

THE LOTTA DAILY BAR — HOMEMADE SPECIALTIES WITH REGIONAL INGREDIENTS FOR EVERY TIME OF DAY

WILMINA HOTEL AND LOVIS RESTAURANT — HISTORIC ARCHITECTURE, SEASONAL VEGETABLES AND A GOOD NIGHT’S SLEEP

KASCHK BY BRLO — CRAFT BEER BAR GETS A NEW MENU AND TASTY BREWS ON TAP

URSTROM KAESE — GOURMET CHEESES FROM BRANDENBURG AND MUCH MORE AT THE MARKTHALLE NEUN CHEESE FESTIVAL