You can’t get more Kreuzberg than this: not only is Klinke right in the middle of it all between Oranienplatz and Kotti, but at the helm are three real Kreuzbergers. Siblings Jette, Lilo and Moritz grew up on Schlesi and are no strangers to Berlin’s restaurant world, having run Mirika near Moritzplatz for several years. The trio found their second location through a childhood acquaintance, who hooked them up with a cafe owner who was giving up his joint. The corner space now shines with new splendour thanks to trained designer Lilo, who has transformed the place into a sophisticated yet casual bistro which retains the vibe of the down-to-earth pub it replaces. Wooden chairs and floors create a warm and uncomplicated look, while the spherical lights and marble counter lend cosmopolitan elegance. Food wise, it’s a similar story with attractively constructed German small plates to share.

This sharing philosophy means it’s best to come to Klinke with several good friends. It’s particularly practical if, like me, you rarely prepare German dishes at home or have friends from overseas visiting. During our visit, we particularly enjoyed the crispy fish croquettes, the tender fried chicken and the cucumber salad as a refreshing addition. Many of the ingredients in these dishes are organic, while the bread and meat come from regional partners (the latter from Havelland). Despite this selection, we didn’t accompany our food with German beer – opting instead for summery, light drinks perfect for outdoor dining. From autumn onwards, Klinke will open its indoor space for cozy gastropub-style dinners and drinks, though you are just as welcome to drop in for lunch to try the simple weekly menu. While the weather allows, grab a seat on the terrace for a slice of Bienenstich and make a toast to Kreuzberg, the Kiez which never gets boring. Speaking of which, the district features in almost every detail: even Klinke’s plates, which are made by a local ceramic artist, are modelled on Viktoriapark. As I said: you can’t get more Kreuzberg than this.

Text: Nina Trippel / Photos: Kateryna Firsova

Klinke, Dresdener Str.119 10999 Berlin–Kreuzberg; map
Tue, 12–15h, Wed–Sat 12–0h, Sun 17–0h

@klinke_berlin

If you walk through Treptower Park towards the Insel der Jugend, you cannot miss the Zenner House on the banks of the Spree. This imposing Neo-Renaissance building served as a grand guesthouse in the early 1900s before it was destroyed during the war. It was subsequently rebuilt by East German architects, but after Berlin’s reunion the building fell into decline: until recently it housed a multinational burger chain. With the opening of Zenner in June 2021, the site has been returned to its former glory as a riverside retreat with a beer and wine garden combining the traditional with the contemporary. Like the century-old original the expansive terrace seats 1500, but the food and drink options are very much modern and extend to two separate menus. The first selection is relaxed: think draught pale ale from the biergarten bar served with a perfectly-cooked Käsespätzle or a plate of Pommes – served not “rot weiß”, but with pico de gallo (tomato salsa) or truffle pesto. The second, more-refined menu includes tapas plates such as stuffed sweet potato with creamed spinach, sage, tomato, feta and pine nuts. These match perfectly with the wine list, which is substantial and focuses on Austrian and German bottles.
 

Whether you go low-key or fancy (or combine both) the cuisine from chef Robert Hilges offers a fresh twist on the German classics that were served to Zenner guests in times past. There’s beauty in the variety: you can drop in for a quick drink to break up your walk or boat ride, or make a full evening of it with a multi-plate dinner with sunset views over the river. As for entertainment, there is a program of live music and DJ sets such as this Friday’s Ceremony x Musikgarten (23.07.2021). Before you head off, don’t forget to seek out the hidden ice cream parlour and coffee stand for some treats to go. As for indoors, all of the buildings on the site are to be fully renovated by 2024, when we will finally be able to say: Zenner is back!

Text: Lottie Mac / Photos: Kateryna Firsova

Zenner, Alt-Treptow 15, 12435 Berlin–Alt-Treptow; map
Mon–Fri 12h–late & Sat–Sun 10h–late

@zenner.berlin