When you think of tacos, you probably think of an avalanche of spice which, while extreme, always delivers the goods. This is exactly what Victoria Tacos founders Robert Jung, Bayo Adafin and Christoph Hameister wanted to create when they began running filled-tortilla pop-ups back in summer 2020. Inspired by New York taquerias and Mexican street food, the trio’s concept now has its own home: a sleek white-tiled restaurant on the corner of Maybachufer and Pannierstraße which opened its doors in June 2021. News of the team’s tacos has spread fast (we advise you to go early to avoid the queues), with a veggie-friendly menu that includes our personal fave: the Quesabirria with chili marinated jackfruit, melted cheese, coriander and onion. Now, off the back of this success, the taco pros have extended their menu with a breakfast for foodies who don’t mind starting the day with some heat. Every weekend from 9h the team serve proudly unconventional breakfast tacos including hearty scrambled eggs with chorizo for meat lovers, an egg and mashed potato version for veggies, and for vegans a creamy cauliflower scramble with toasted sunflower seeds, pickled jalapeños and parsley.

For those wanting to rouse themselves after a particularly late night, there’s the “back-to-life” taco: an egg-filled tortilla with chorizo, mashed potato, cheddar, pickled jalapeños and hot sauce with red or green salsa for extra spice. As for drinks, there’s the Cafe Onhe Olla, a traditional brew that means “coffee from a clay pot” (add a tequila shot if you’re feeling brave). For something more refreshing, there’s the Aguas Frescas with orange, pineapple and cardamom, blueberry, cucumber and lavender, or traditional hibiscus mint. If you aren’t satisfied after all that, you can finish up with the “Mamas Breakfast” dessert comprising homemade cornbread, milky horchata de chufa and a mixed berry compote. It’s a good thing Victoria Tacos is by the Maybachufer: a canalside walk might be just what you need after all that indulgence…

Text: Dave Alcantara / Photos: Kateryna Firsova

Victoria Tacos, Pannierstr.32, 12047 Berlin–Neukölln; map
Wed–Fri 17–22h, Sat–Sun 9–22h

@victoriatacosberlin

To ensure the natural wine doesn’t stop flowing, Café Frieda serves cuvée and Grüner Veltliner on tap. And for good reason: owners Ben and Samina, who also run Mrs Robinson’s down the road, believe biodynamic food and wine should be made readily available. Stepping inside this 3-in-1 café, restaurant and bar is like immersing yourself in a melting pot of dining and drinking cultures. Offering entry-level fine dining, Frieda serves a line-up of dishes that fuse east and west in a way that suits all tastes. Walk-ins here are welcome: groups are offered front-row seats by the open kitchen while lone diners can immerse themselves in more secluded seating to enjoy the impressive hi-fi system that pays homage to Tokyo’s audiophile listening bars.

Frieda’s Michelin-star-trained team are adherents of the nose-to-tail philosophy popularized by British chef Fergus Henderson. The freshly-baked sausage rolls make full use of their ingredients: smoked Erdhof Seewalde veal, Mangalitsa pork and off-cuts of crunchy croissant dough. Think pigs in a blanket but with prime meat and months of recipe development. Currently served 12-18h, the main food menu includes line-caught white Albacore tuna sourced from one of the few remaining artisan fishing ports in Europe. It comes soaked in a bath of tart chili and yuzu kosho, topped with layers of hollandaise emulsion and served with crispy matchstick fries. Beautifully cracked and creviced tomatoes and shishito peppers are doused in a shoyu and Sicilian olive oil vinaigrette and topped with smoked kombu seaweed in lieu of salt. As for beverages, you can expect homemade soft drinks, Belgian beers and specialty Scandinavian ciders. To finish, try the plum sorbet and a glass of red pepper and angelica root vermouth, soundtracked by eclectic avant-garde vinyl.

Text: Claire Mouchemore / Photos: Robert Rieger

Café Frieda, Lychener Str.37, 10437 Berlin–Prenzlauer Berg; map. 
Wed–Sun 10–22h; kitchen open 10–18h

@cafe_frieda