Committing to locally sourced cuisine in the top-tier restaurant scene is becoming more and more popular in Berlin. At the end of 2015, the hidden restaurant Einsunternull in Mitte joined this trend. Arriving for dinner, it appears from the outside as though you’ve got the wrong address, but looks can be deceiving; the more causal upper floor is open only for lunch, whilst dinner takes place in the basement. If the word basement is off-putting, don’t worry – the property was renovated with a huge amount of care and attention, with the subterranean floor dug out to create a high ceiling and an adjoining garden atrium. The lower dining area has a calm and peaceful atmosphere, which intensifies as you descend in the elevator and take a seat. Every ingredient listed on the menu has been scrutinised, tested, and locally sourced – it took them half a year to find the hazelnuts, and the asparagus is pickled and preserved like Sauerkraut, leaving it as soft and tender as butter. You can taste the attention to detail, and every dish is a reference to the complexity of simplicity. Ivo Ebert, who runs the place, is also a sommelier, so don’t hesitate to accept the suggested paired wine list – you won’t regret it. (Text & photo: (bottom) Sven Hausherr)
Einsunternull, Hannoversche Str.1, 10115 Berlin-Mitte; map
Dinner: Mon-Sat 19-22.30h
Lunch: Tue-Sat 12-14h
