A good mood is guaranteed at Treat, not least because of the big gold smiley emblazoned on the front of the Neukölln wine shop. The logo also features on Treat’s glasses, in which they serve the likes of low intervention and biodynamic orange wine from the Czech Republic and Portuguese Pet Nats (see our article from 2020). Now owner Julia Böning has a new “treat” in store: she’s invited the team from Feed the Pony to cook for a series of weekend dinner nights. In the kitchen is Hannah, who worked at nearby Palsta and Brasserie Lamazère, while up front is Marty, who brings expert knowledge and lots of passion (Maja, the third in the group, is currently on parental leave). The trio share a passion for seasonal, regional ingredients of the finest quality. Dinner is served on small plates and bowls, with home-baked dark rye bread and whipped creamy butter on the side. The refreshing summer tomato salad comes with a dressing of rhubarb and elderberry, while the vichyssoise soup is given a green makeover with crunchy peas and fish from Stechlinsee – easily the best dish of the evening.

That said, the fermented potato waffles with crème fraîche and unripe gooseberries are a fun, surprising standout. For dessert you’ll find a slimline spin on Topfenknödel served with slivers of almond on top. From a culinary standpoint it’s all great, but it’s the partnership between Treat and Feed the Pony that’s where the magic happens. Treat customers had long been requesting a food menu to go with their wine – a wish that has now been fulfilled. Whether you class it as food with wine or wine with food doesn’t matter – both have equal billing here. The Treat team are there to guide you through the evening’s wine list: discovering Portuguese mousse sparkling wine was a highlight of the evening, as was the “Aparte Amber Orange” with its funky flavors. In short, the food and drink wowed us – as did the personable team’s incredible knowledge and expertise. We went home with grins as wide as the smiley on the window.

Text: Nina Trippel / Photos: Nina Trippel & Julia Böning

Treat Berlin, Okerstr.35, 12049 Berlin–Neukölln; map
Feed the Pony Fridays & Saturdays from 18h; you can request a table by email

@treatberlin
@feed_thepony

Filled with little minimalist touches, Holly Gastrobar is a charming French-focused bar-restaurant which gives a feeling of warmth as soon as you walk in. Cream-colored walls, dark wood floors and an imposing bar give the place a contemporary feel, while the open kitchen gives you a glimpse of your food as it’s made. Located just off Flughafenstraße in Neukölln, the space was opened by chef Simon Guitard and sommelier Fernanda Befi in summer 2021. The concept: blending French food philosophy and fermentation. Ingredients are conserved in numerous ways, from curing and smoking to aging and drying. The dishes that result offer new takes on regional and French classics, like Duroc pork tartare with fermented apple, chili and coriander for meat lovers and Brussels sprout leaves with lightly fermented blueberries and nasturtium (vegan and veggie versions are available).

Care is given to the presentation of the food, with handmade tableware that lets you know you’re dining somewhere a little bit special. As for drinks, beer and wine sommelier Fernanda Befi incorporates a rotating selection of bottles focused on small producers. And this being a gastrobar, if you want to stay after dinner drinks are served until 1h (22h outside). Summer sips on the terrace: yes please!

Text: Dave Alcantara / Photos: Dave Alcantara & Holly Gastrobar

Holly Gastrobar, Mainzer Str.23, 12053 Berlin–Neukölln; map
Wed–Sat from 18h30, the bar is open until 1h.

@holly.gastrobar