Straw lampshades dangle from the ceiling, rattan chairs and pink accents fill the room. The feature is the yellow-tiled bar counter, behind which the food is cooked. If you long for a summer vacation, you should stop by Mehringdamm to get your fix. Inspired by Mexican architect Luis Barragán and American photographer Slim Aarons, Maike and Marian, with the help of their architect Anja Ziehmann, opened Taqueria Mama Rosas in mid-May 2024. At Mama Rosas, the barrier between guest and host is almost non-existent — the taqueria was born out of Maike and Marian’s desire to make friend taco night accessible to others. Maike was born in Peru and grew up with Mexican cuisine; Marian has a background in gastronomy, having run Weilands on Potsdamer Platz with his two partners for 18 years. The concept at Mama Rosas is simple: Mexican street food, with tacos and quesadillas, classic cocktails, and soon bowls and sandwiches.
The menu remains small and refined, the offerings authentic and simple. My recommendation: you shouldn’t skip the tacos, because they are and will remain the core offering. Maike prepares all taco ingredients fresh every day: corn tortillas, guacamole, pico de gallo, and pulled pork or chicken — there’s also a vegan option with mushrooms and potatoes. Collaborations with friends are planned, and fish tacos are also likely to make it onto the menu soon! If you’re looking for a cocktail or two for your beach vacation, choose between Margaritas, Palomas and Mezcal Mules, each of which has a non-alcoholic version. Now, would I say that after your visit to Maike and Marian, you can do without a real vacation? No, because Mehringdamm is still Mehringdamm and Mexican beaches are still Mexican beaches. However, if you’re looking for a little taste of a beach bar, Taqueria Mama Rosas is the place to go.
Text: Robyn Steffen / Photos: Savannah van der Niet
Mama Rosas Taqueria, Mehringdamm 72, 10961 Berlin–Kreuzberg; map
@taqueria.mama.rosas
They are fluffy and soft, sometimes creamy and sweet, sometimes crispy and spicy. They come in all kinds of different variations, are the perfect snack for any time of day and any mood and are admittedly quite addictive – we’re talking about sandos. You can find sandos on every corner in Japan, because alongside onigiris and fried chicken, these sandwiches are one of the absolute konbini classics. Since the beginning of May 2024, you can now also get them at the new Yume café and diner in Friedrichshain. Xiaofen Fan, owner of the café, is particularly proud of the homemade shokupan – the Japanese milk bread is made here and used for all the sandwiches on the menu. Whether with fruit and cream, crispy chicken or creamy egg salad, they immediately transport me back to Japan. But it’s not just these that make me reminisce at Yume: In addition to sandos, there are other Japanese classics on the menu: karaage, korokke, katsu, onigiris – some dishes from the weekly menu will be alternated or replaced in the future. But one thing is clear: if you miss Japan, you’ve come to the right place.
At the moment, it’s particularly worth popping in for lunch, because that’s the only time they serve omurice – an omelet filled with rice, usually served with ketchup or a demi-glace. And if you prefer to make yourself comfortable in the park during the warm summer days, you can also order most of the dishes to go. For a sweet finish, there are parfaits (you should definitely leave some appetite for these!) with matcha, matcha ice cream and homemade shiratama dango, or alternatively with hojicha. And if you fancy something unusual, you should order the melon cream soda – a bright green melon lemonade with a vanilla ice cream scoop inside. I’d say the sandwich season is officially open!
Text & Photos: Robyn Steffen
Yume, Gabriel-Max-Str.2, 10245 Berlin–Friedrichshain; map
If you enjoy meeting friends for long brunches, you’ve probably been to Annelies or Distrikt Coffee a few times already. The concept at Annelies is simple: the food is made with seasonal and regional ingredients and, in addition to menu classics, there are unusual dishes you’re unlikely to find elsewhere. With their new (third) location, Sophie Hardy, Hannes Haake and Matthew Maue offer you the same kitchen concept, as an evening version. Since Bertie’s soft opening at the beginning of May 2024, you can try chef and co-founder Matthew’s dishes virtually every hour of the day. The large, floor-to-ceiling French windows give you a taste of what awaits you inside. The wooden benches are reminiscent of classic American diner booths and the bar counter with its steel bistro stools transports you to NYC. Bertie not only draws on the metropolis for its interior design but also its menu. No wonder, because Matthew grew up in the US’s big cities and has tasted his way through New York, Chicago, Brooklyn, San Francisco and beyond. Most of his interpretations are served as sharing plates and bar snacks, making them particularly suitable for a quick detour to the bar.
Deviled eggs with smoked egg yolk and chives, marinated mushrooms, flatbread with bouillabaisse, mussels and saffron aioli, or a Caesar schnitzel with salad, parmesan, and gravy — the menu is fun and, with its different portion sizes and varied selection, leaves little to be desired. The deep-fried potatoes with bouillon seasoning and lemon aioli and the buffalo wings with ranch and celery have already become my clear favorites. Those with a sweet tooth will love the banana pudding with salted peanuts and caramel sauce (I promise!). There are also classic cocktails such as negronis, margaritas and pisco sours, draft beer, natural wines, and a fine selection of non-alcoholic drinks. All good things come in threes, as Sophie, Hannes and Matthew prove once again with their new bistro, Bertie. Incidentally, reservations are not possible here for the time being, and this is how it will remain in the future.
Text & Photos: Robyn Steffen
Bertie, Schwedter Str.13, 10119 Berlin–Prenzlauer Berg; map
@bertieberlin
On the first evening of May, I found myself in Wedding, at UUU to be precise. Yuhang Wu and Jonas Borchers welcome a couple of regular guests and me at the door — a wall of tiles appears behind a long curtain, and another room with a U-shaped table opens up around the corner. The UUU is a special place: modern, elegant, understated and intimate. Eight guests at one table, a fixed eight-course menu accompanied by tea have been on offer since September 2020. But, as we know, May brings new arrivals — even at UUU. But only temporarily — only in May! “Those who live in the mountains eat the mountains; those who live by the sea eat the sea,” they say in China. With the new “Eat the Sea” menu, chef Yuhang introduces you to the culinary diversity of China’s 14,000-kilometer coastline for one month. The usual menu takes a break, but you can choose freely from the May menu — which changes depending on the available catch and is designed to share. Steamed oysters with Shenyang dip, scallops on glass noodles with fermented chili and garlic, wood mackerel dumplings, roasted potatoes with mint and green asparagus. As usual, the menu offers the perfect mix of reinterpreted classics and unique combinations, which seamlessly tie together in Yuhang’s dishes.
Comfort food such as dumplings and glass noodles are refined without being pretentious and, if you grew up with Asian cuisine, that’s exactly what you want: simple and honest dishes. Incidentally, the honesty and simplicity run through the entire experience. Despite the intimate atmosphere (which, let’s be honest, can sometimes be more off-putting than inviting), I feel comfortable all evening. The regulars laugh heartily at my endless enthusiasm and Jonas, who calmly explains the menu, makes recommendations while being anything but intrusive. During the pop-up, Jonas serves cold-brewed Chinese teas as always, but (only in May) long drinks with or without alcohol are on the menu. And then there are the Wowi desserts, which have dug their way very, very deep into my heart. The first time you bite into the sweet potato mille-feuille and the rhubarb tart with lemongrass cream and soft soy meringue, you’ll wonder why you didn’t try them sooner.
Text: Robyn Steffen / Photos: Robyn Steffen & UUU
UUU, Sprengelstr.15, 13353 Berlin–Wedding; map
@uuuberlin
How happy I am that you’re finally over, dear April — your visit this year felt like an eternity again. It’s time to put winter clothes in the back of the wardrobe for good and spend as much time as possible outside. Since last week (26.04.2024), you can do this particularly well in the summer garden of the Alte Turnhalle. Between trees and fruit bushes, you can enjoy a green oasis for a relaxed afternoon every day from 3 pm. And, from 4 pm, you can try out their summer menu: Classic brat- and currywurst, fish & chips, small starters such as bruschetta or mixed platters to share with seasonal grilled vegetables, salads and baked potatoes — accompanied by a Lillet Berry, Spritz or a beer on tap. The garden is particularly suitable for evenings when you want to meet up with a large group of friends, and we all know it’s not easy to get a large table in a hurry in Berlin. On the weekend, it’s worth taking a look inside, because brunch in an old gymnasium between ladder rungs, original parquet flooring from the 1950s, and listed facades is a unique experience.
The Alte Turnhalle has been run as a restaurant and event location since 2017. In the 500 square meter hall with seven-meter-high barrel vaults and chandeliers, there is a large buffet every weekend from 10 am with a varied, seasonal selection of hot and cold dishes — vegetarians and vegans will also get their money’s worth. In addition to coffee and Prosecco, there are the in-house “Botanical Latte”s, such as the “Blue Balance” with lavender, cashews and frankincense; or the “Purple Chai” with lucuma, sweet potato and chai. You should leave room for dessert despite the large selection because if you miss out on a waffle (or two) from the in-house waffle station, you only have yourself to blame!
Text & Photos: Robyn Steffen
Alte Turnhalle, Holteistr.6–9, 10245 Berlin–Friedrichshain; map
@alteturnhalle