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JORD — TRADITIONAL GERMAN ABENDBROT GIVEN A MICHELIN STAR MAKEOVER BY BJÖRN SWANSON

JORD — TRADITIONAL GERMAN ABENDBROT GIVEN A MICHELIN STAR MAKEOVER BY BJÖRN SWANSON

Do you know the German word “Abendbrot”? Those light meals with bread, sausage, cheese and pickles from a jar? Familiar foods that give you the feeling of being at grandma’s house. At Jord, the restaurant run by Michelin star chef Björn Swanson, there’s no trace of grandma’s dated furnishings. Instead, you’re surrounded by a minimalist, cozy space that brings a touch of “old” Berlin. A gray cement floor meets white walls, with delicate wood and iron tables arranged under gold-gilded beams. The welcome is warm as you’re led past a well-equipped wine fridge to your table. As for the menu, it carries the word “Tischvoll” (“full table”) and is as streamlined as the interior. Instead of being served one dish after another, all the food is presented at the same time, leaving the order in which you eat up to you.

You’ll find fresh interpretations of Leberwurst, Berlin mustard egg with char fish caviar, pickled vegetables and lettuce á la Oma Irmgard – Swanson’s grandmother. For those less hungry, there’s a pared-down option with bread, butter, radish and cheese. Wine consultant Berdanette Wullich and sommelier Maximilian Kraft keep the glasses full with the finest wines throughout the evening. Simple and sensational, this Abendbrot is one you won’t easily forget.

Text: Ines Spicker / Photos: Lukas Kirchgasser & Ines Spicker

Jord, Brunnenstr.172, 10119 Berlin–Mitte; map
Mon–Sat 18–0h

@jord_berlin

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SWORD MASTER — CHIC EATERY SERVING HAND CUT KOREAN NOODLES

SWORD MASTER — CHIC EATERY SERVING HAND CUT KOREAN NOODLES

While the pen is usually mightier than the sword, there are some exceptions – like Sword Master Noodle. This Korean restaurant opened up shop in Prenzlauer Berg in September 2022 and serves traditional Korean wheat noodles which are hand cut with the blade of a knife. The resulting dish is called Kalguksu – a traditional Korean noodle soup whose name roughly translates as “knife noodles”. It’s a concept you won’t find elsewhere in town – all the more reason to pay a visit to this small, minimalist restaurant. If you’re quick, you can secure a seat right next to the glassed-walled kitchen and watch the steaming dishes being prepared. As far as the menu is concerned, less is more: you can choose between four generously portioned soups, served by one of the attentive owners. Whether you go for beef, chicken, grilled mushrooms or mussels, it’s worth ordering an extra portion of the fantastic homemade kimchi as a little treat. Just what you want to stick your fork – and knife – into.

Text & Photos: Natascha Hamel

Sword Master Noodle, Dunckerstr.30, 10439 Berlin–Prenzlauer Berg; map
Wed–Sun 17–22h

@swordmaster_noodle

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PARS RESTAURANT — ARTISAN CHOCOLATIER BREAKS THE MOLD WITH FINE DINING VENUE

PARS RESTAURANT — ARTISAN CHOCOLATIER BREAKS THE MOLD WITH FINE DINING VENUE

Chocolatier Kristiane Kegelmann came to Berlin in 2016 to conquer the capital’s culinary scene. Since then, her handmade chocolates have been teasing our taste buds with their unique quality and craftsmanship. These one-of-a-kind chocolates are not just regular pralines: every single ingredient has been put together with love and precision. Visually, they are reminiscent of gemstones, with straight lines and hints of pink and gold. It’s a look Kristiane describes as “pure, reduced and to the point”. This style has now been used to create something a bit bigger: a restaurant. Architects DMtk and Some Place Studio were commissioned to transform Café Savigny in Charlottenburg into a bold, straightforward dining room called Pars, opening November 2022. It’s not just a place for chocolates, but a whole new dining destination out west.

Alina Jakobsmeier, Kristiane’s head pastry chef and chef de cuisine, gave us a first (and promising) glimpse into Pars’ fine dining concept at a preview sitting on Saturday (12.11.2022). We were treated to a seven-course menu including paired wines from sommelier Christoph Geyler. Our highlight was the homemade ravioli filled with herb mushrooms in a full-bodied shallot reduction and dill flowers, followed by amaranth, pickled Brussels sprouts and bacon. Alina’s culinary direction is clear and direct: high-quality regional ingredients in dishes that are light, honest and elegant. The restaurant features a large asymmetrical “chef’s table”, which fellow restaurateurs will recognize from their professional cutting boards. The kitchen is open, letting you watch Alina and her team as they work calmly and professionally. With Pars restaurant, Savignyplatz and West Berlin are heading in a very tasty direction indeed.

Text: Laura Iriondo / Photos: Pujan Shakupa

Pars Berlin, Grolmanstr.53, Berlin–Charlottenburg; map 
Tue–Sat 10–16h & 18–23h. Opening 19.11.2022. You can book a table online.

@pars.berlin

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STICKS ‘N’ SUSHI: DANISH-JAPANESE FUSION RESTAURANT MOVES INTO MITTE

STICKS ‘N’ SUSHI: DANISH-JAPANESE FUSION RESTAURANT MOVES INTO MITTE

Sushi and yakitori, done the Danish way. That’s what Sticks ‘n’ Sushi is all about. Just a few hundred meters from Rosenthaler Platz is where the Copenhagen sushi pros have made themselves at home at their third Berlin restaurant. Its design is inspired by the architecture of Japanese residential neighborhoods, with warm, earthy colors and eye-catching lighting. The menu has undergone a culinary upgrade, offering sushi mainstays and classic grilled yakitori (fish, meat or vegetable skewers grilled on a lava stone), as well as a range of vegetarian and vegan creations. These include crispy uramaki with avocado and sesame seeds, smoked beetroot tartare with deep-fried artichoke wedges, and shishito yaki sticks with padron peppers, spicy gochujang, tsume and lime sauce, served alongside grilled edamame with sea salt or spicy miso. Skillfully arranged and served on modern tableware, only fish and seafood from sustainable and certified sources are featured here. Be sure to leave enough room for dessert, because the green matcha marzipan balls with chocolate and yuzu sorbet are reason enough to visit.

Text: Alison Musch / Photos: Sticks ‘n’ Sushi

Sticks ‘n’ Sushi, Torstr.171, 10115 Berlin–Mitte; map
Sun–Thu 11–23h, Fri & Sat 12–0h

@sticksnsushide

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UNDERSTATED SMALL PLATES AND WINE AT KONTRÄR — RECOMMENDED BY MICHAELA WÖLFEL

UNDERSTATED SMALL PLATES AND WINE AT KONTRÄR — RECOMMENDED BY MICHAELA WÖLFEL

As soon as you enter the Konträr, you feel a sort of deceleration: this is a place for taking your time. Combining wine bar and restaurant, the Prenzlauer Berg spot was founded by Charlottenburger Taran Schiffer and chef Pablo Gomez. The pair have pedigree: they trained at The Culinary Institute of America and worked at New York’s Contra restaurant and Wildair wine bar under chefs Jeremiah Stone and Fabiàn von Hauske Valtierra (the name Konträr is a portmanteau of their former kitchen employers). Located in the Winsviertel neighborhood, the restaurant (bar) serves an excellent combination of interesting natural wines and down-to-earth fusion dishes inspired by the food the duo encountered while traveling in Latin America. Their approach is intuitive: ingredients are picked based on what “feels” right, seasonality permitting, of course.

Taran chooses exactly the right wine for the evening – and for you. He picks with as much precision as Pablo puts into his sharing plates. We ordered the Rockefeller scallops, a plate of radicchio, some white asparagus with beurre blanc and – the highlight – octopus with roasted potatoes, chipotle jam and aioli. The wine recommendation was a 700 series cuvee from Jacquesson, one of the oldest champagne houses in France. Briefly put: it made us want to stick around. Combining spontaneity and lightness, Konträr is as happy a culinary hangout as you can think of.

Text: Michaela Wölfel / Photos: Konträr & Henry Laatzig

Michaela worked in publishing and architectural communication in New York before joining Cee Cee in 2015. She is currently studying a master’s degree in architecture, mobility and creative urban development.

Konträr, Winsstr.53, 10405 Berlin–Prenzlauer Berg; map
Sun–Fri from 19h – you can reserve a table here.

@kontraer.berlin

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