“Sacrebleu!” is not only an enjoyable expression to say. The French term that translates directly to “holy blue!” is usually exclaimed in surprise or shock. It’s a perfect fit for Sacrebleu!, a Schillerkiez restaurant and bar. Not only does the name quickly associate the space with French cuisine, for the team here the name is also meaningful in how they associate dark blue with the stain red wines leave after a few hours of oxidation. You’ll find the blue neon sign of Sacrebleu! on a quiet street. The space reaches far back, with high rattan seats tucked under black marble-like tables, and one low, longer table for group dining. Founders Léna Gessner, Philipp Mogwitz and Sven Breitenbruch wanted to launch a wine bar with small snacks when Sacrebleu! opened at the start of 2023. Sommelier Alexander Fleck came on board to develop and manage the project and he proudly guides us through the restaurant’s story, concept and – his favorite – the wines. The selection is low intervention wines, as to allow true expression of the terroir and the winemaker’s touch. The wines are European-centric, straight, clean, and there’s something for everyone (and every dish!) with about 20 on offer by the glass.
The cuisine at Sacrebleu! is centered on bistronomy. Undoubtedly, there is an element of classic Parisian bistro recipes, and here they elegantly meet a modern gastronomic approach. The menu, by head chef Marc Bierstedt, is seasonal and rotates monthly. He masters marinades, preservatives and fermentations, through dishes that are creative, colorful, exquisitely plated. Low-hung lights illuminate the plates as they arrive at our table. A standout is the steamed cod that falls apart with the touch of the fork, served in a mussel escabèche sauce, with butter, estragon, fennel seed and pastis. Alexander pairs it with the Beaujolais village Séléné. We also try the terrine with pumpkin and goat’s cheese, and the celery “Waldorf” which includes celery mousse, marinated grapes, hazelnuts, and delicately placed flakes of young black truffle. Whatever you choose, a “Sacrebleu!” might quietly fall from your lips.
Text & Photos: Savannah van der Niet
Sacrebleu!, Kienitzer Str. 95, 12049 Berlin–Neukölln; map
Mon–Thurs 18–24h & Fri 18–01h. Reservations recommended.
@sacrebleu.berlin
One of my favorite places in Seoul is the restaurant “Perhaps Today” in Hannam. Slightly off the main street, the lovely owner, Heejin, serves natural wine, sandwiches, ice cream, and snacks there. Heejin is a born hostess whom everyone in the neighborhood knows: When she cooks in the small kitchen together with her staff, you feel right at home. But don’t worry: You don’t have to book a plane ticket to South Korea to try her creations. A visit to Uncompress in Kreuzberg next Saturday is enough. This is where Heejin will be guesting for a day on 11.11. with her pop-up project, “All Good Things.” With her, she has the bestsellers from Seoul: three focaccia sandwiches – one with salmon, one with ham, and one with pickled carrot. Her vegan tomato ragu – my favorite – is served as a dip with focaccia chips. If you want to make sure to try one of her delicious breads, it’s best to pre-order via her Instagram. And if you’re as big a fan as I am after the meal, you might as well get your hands on her Maybe-Today merchandise – to keep a piece of Seoul around in Kreuzberg for a bit longer. By the way, Heejin is moving on after Berlin: On the 25. and 27.11.2023, she will be cooking at La Station in Lausanne. And who knows… maybe she will come back to Berlin for a second round!
Text: Laura Storfner / Photos: Perhaps Today Hannam
Sandwich pop-up “All Things Good” at Unkompress, Fichtestr.23, 10967 Berlin-Kreuzberg; map
11.11.2023 from 17h
@unkompress
@perhaps.today.hannam
If you’ve already shifted into fall mode and just want to lie under the covers all day, then it’s the season for warm soups again. And there’s currently no better place for that than Maiyarap on Oranienstraße. Since the end of July 2023, Don, who you may already know from Tossakan, has been serving Thai noodle soups here. At Maiyarap, things are a little different, but there’s one thing both places have in common: Don’s curiosity and willingness to experiment in the kitchen. How does it all taste? The best way to find out for yourself is to try one of his six “Gieuw Tiew” noodle soups. Whether with tofu, chicken leg or beef rib, each soup is served with homemade broth, fresh Thai herbs and rice ribbon noodles and delivers on texture, taste – and spiciness! For the latter, you can decide for yourself what you’re comfortable with – from not spicy to Thai spicy, it’s all there. At Don’s, soups also lend inspiration to creative beverages. For example, the “Tom Kha Sour” cocktail, based on Tom Kha soup (obviously) – a refreshing cocktail with rum, coconut milk, lemongrass, chili and coriander.
For delicious non-alcoholic options, there’s a selection of “home mades”: for example, the Cha Manao, a black tea from Thailand with sugar and lime, or the Nam Manao, a lemonade made with soda, lime and mint. And even those who aren’t in the mood for soup will get their money’s worth here with the small dishes: Steamed and deep-fried dumplings, corn patties and crispy pork belly (the absolute No.1 – next to Don and the noodle soups). One thing Don and I agree on is that the best dishes are often created late in the evening in the kitchen, when there’s not much left in the fridge, but our appetite is bigger than ever. Improvising has taught him to make a lot out of a little. We’re not talking about fine dining here, but food that reminds you of good home cooking. And so, in his noodle bar, come the most delicious soups, which make the cold days not only bearable, but one more reason to go out.
Text & Photos: Robyn Steffen
Maiyarap, Oranienstr.200, 10999 Berlin–Kreuzberg; map
Mon–Thu 12–15h, 17–22h, Fr–So 12–22h
@maiyarapberlin
Are tapas your thing, no matter what time of day it is, morning or late evening? Then Fourty Years Kitchen in the middle of Gräfekiez might be just your new spot to put on your “To Try” list. The brunch and dinner spot is now the second location to join the Fourty Years Café, which has already made a name for itself in Kreuzberg. Alongside the friendly staff, owners Cemal and Merve personally welcome you with open arms. With the diverse options, you can choose here between cold and warm tapas, which are lovingly prepared in hot small pans and various bowls. So you can make your own favorites from a selection of vegetarian, vegan and the “I eat everything” dishes. We feasted our way through cilbir, turkish poached eggs with yogurt, shakshuka and Kibbeh – each of the tapas perfectly seasoned and prepared. In addition to the brunch highlights, there are several dinner highlights towards the evening that you should definitely try. From Mücver (Zucchini Pancakes) to Eggplant Rolls, Roasted Cauliflower, to “40ies Dürüm” and Iskender Köfte – there is something for everyone.
The homemade lemonades and non-alcoholic cocktails are another highlight on the menu, for example the Blackcurrant Rosemary Lemonade and the Espresso Martini (0.0%). When it comes to the dessert menu, it’s best to let yourself be surprised: New desserts await you every week – so you can virtually taste your way through the dessert menu every week. Our weekly menu included a delicious Muhallebi (Turkish milk pudding) with rhubarb and strawberry cream and caramelized walnuts.
Text: Paulina Noack / Photos: Luna Schaffron
Fourty Years Kitchen, Dieffenbachstr.52, 10967 Berlin; map
Tue–Fri 8–22h, Sat & Sun 9–22h
@fourtyyearskitchen